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24 December 2007 @ 08:17 am
 
Sometimes it's a pleasure to drink tea, sometimes a privilege, and occasionally both. When my friend Lew Perin invited me to share his samplings of some of Imen's Dan Congs, I knew I was in for a treat, and so it was. Here are my jottings, mere shadows of the teas we drank and the pleasure they gave us. We drank Zei Shi 06, 96 Wu Dong Da Ping Dan Cong, 86 Vintage Dan Cong, and Huang Zi Xiang Orange Flower 07. (See <http://tea-obsession.blogspot.com/> where Imen describes her teas available at Tea Habitat.) Here we go with my lame descriptions, tea by tea:

Huang Zi Xiang Orange Flower 07 --
For me this was the center, the greatest of the set. Strangely, it started off in a Jin Xuan style (I mean to say Golden Day Lily of Taiwan fame), so butter-soft and lovely, corn silky, deep, warm, caressing, inviting, cuddly; but, quickly it revealed a depth that the Taiwan tea lacks: The Hang Zi Xiang offered up its unmistakable Dan Cong flower in a rich yet gentle lemony orange sort of way. You can't describe this tea in the usual linear manner: First, second, third steep, etc, for the tea is too complex. In fact, I've never drunk a tea that changed so much on the tongue and all over the mouth from front to back in so many ways: cucumber-melon flower buttery and bitter, lemon-orange flower, fresh steamed corn, all permuting one into the other for long minutes after the tea is swallowed, each element revisiting again and again. Words fail. This tea is a multifaceted delight.

Zei Shi 06 --
The fruit aroma is extraordinary with a gentle flower essence flowing in and out. The finish is soft, yet slightly astringent. As often happens I can't figure out which of the many fruits and flowers these might be. Was it my imagination -- let's hope so -- or did the aroma off the gaiwan lid echo this tea's name? I leave that to greater minds and more refined noses. (See the tea's name translated and better descriptions than mine under Bears3's post on the Dan Cong tasting at Tea Habitat.)

96 Wu Dong Da Ping Dan Cong --
This one features chocolate overtones together with a citrusy (grapefruit?) taste which in this case is unmistakably bitter, but together with the chocolate, balances beautifully. Some "wood" comes out in later steeps, attesting to the tea's age. Finish there is, but not nearly as long, pronounced, or complex as the HZX above. Unique here is the chocolate (Keemun-like) that keeps peeping through all the other characteristics of this tea.

86 Vintage Dan Cong --
I had written: "Rough, dark, aged, a bit of funky bark wood." Further, I'd say it showed its age mightily, but not unlke many other Oolongs I've drunk of that age. I never took to aged oolongs particularly, and can't see why they'd be purposefully aged, but that says more perhaps about me than about this Dan Cong.

Those were the four we drank. Others await. I'm getting my tea nose readied. More could be said, and I'm sure I'll think of it as soon as I've pressed the "send" button.
 
 
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Lew Perin[info]lewperin on December 24th, 2007 08:37 pm (UTC)
I was there, but I don't have a lot to add. The Huang Zhi Xiang was one of the greatest teas I've ever had, so I feel empowered to ask that its name be spelled right!

The '86 Dancong was a strange one. The thing that was really off-putting about it was a kind of wet-storage odor (how's that for on-topic?) Imen has since told me a way to minimize this by rinsing and steaming, which I haven't tried yet, but we only gave it three steeps until my pseudonymous guest left. Later I brewed it maybe 10 more times, and it took on a lot of the character of a really good red tea. But it never tasted like a Dancong I would recognize.
geraldoxyz[info]geraldoxyz on December 25th, 2007 03:30 am (UTC)
Thank you, pseudonymous asoka1944 and Lew, for the lurid verbal depictions. I've spent the day with your descriptions bouncing back and forth in my brain.

I've heard from reliable sources that truly aged Wuyi takes on the characteristics of aged pu'er. I'll be eager to hear your reactions to the other aged Dancongs. I hope they are less wet and require no steaming.

Best to you on this Christmas Eve--
~geraldo
[info]asoka1944 on December 25th, 2007 12:56 pm (UTC)
Hi there,
Spelling ain't my thing, so thank zhi very much. I suspect my "rough" and "funky" alluded to your "wet stored," and I'm glad you discovered -- Imen guided you -- through a process to ameliorate the weirdness, but I guess we need to ask if it is worth the effort in this particular case. I agree about the Huang Zhi Xiang: It is indeed the best. In my case, not only the best, but quantum leaps above what I knew previously as "Dan Cong" of the Phoenix mountain range. Happily, just when you think you know it all, you discover how ridiculously untrue that is. The other two we drank were delightful and varied and complex, so there is much to explore.