Commander of the Undead Sheep Army ([info]organfailure) wrote in [info]mac_cosmetics,
@ 2006-03-09 18:41:00
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Actually pressing pigments! A tutorial (ish)
I've seen a number of people solidifying pigments, so I thought I'd throw my two cents in as well with a quasi-tutorial (quasi because I'm not actually showing the process of a single one, but rather pictures of the method and results - damnable real life prevents me from doing the full whammy).

I'd issue a wee word of caution to those solidifying pigments and not actually pressing them. If you have the opportunity, I'd strongly encourage pressing them too. I've found that when I merely reconstitute/solidify them, they run a higher chance of shearing, breaking, or just having large chunks come off when you run a brush across the top. Some of mine broke, or I'd lose a lot of 'crumbles' with a single swipe until I stumbled upon actually pressing them. This works marvelously! They seem to have the same strength as a regular pan eyeshadow. The only one I've had break was basically the result of an inadvertent drop-kick. And to be honest, I think any regular shadow would have tossed it's cookies at such treatment.



Some finishes work better than others. Mattes will easily turn into a strong solid block, but frosts (or broken lustres) take a lot of pressure before they'll turn into a strong, pretty, uncrumbly block.

Apologies for the steps I don't have pictures for (there's a few tutorials out there on how to do this part). I've been trying to get to this for months, but between thesis writing and finding employment (real world? what's that?), I've not gotten to it. I do have pictures of the pressing part though.

You can do this in any container of choice, with a broken eyeshadow or pigment. For the purposes of this tutorial I'll use an empty MAC pan (because I'm anal and everything must go into palettes), and go with a pigment.

1. Fill the pan about 1/4 full with pigment. Add a few drops of rubbing alcohol and swirl with a toothpick to make a bit of a paste. Ideally it should be rather liquidy to avoid air bubbles, but not swimming - too much alcohol will end up giving you a tiny cake. Add pigment to half full, and repeat. Do the same with 3/4 full. End with the pan completely full (you'd be surprised how much these things compress). I like to smooth out the top with a popsicle stick.

2. Dry. OPEN FLAME IS BAD. Remember this stuff is flammable. I lucked out - I have a food dehydrator. I can put my pans in there and they will be completely dry in less than a day. You could probably put these in an oven (on a cookie sheet or something) on the lowest setting possible (think WARM). And in a few hours it will probably be dry. Remember that rubbing alcohol also contains water, so it'll take some encouragement/time to get totally dry.

Now to press....


(pretend the empty pan is full of dried pigment)


I use a mini flower press (such as this one from B&N). Any small press works, so long as it can provide a lot of pressure. If you can distribute the weight effectively, you could probably do this with a stack of books/weights/whatever.
Edit: You can also get mini flower presses at Borders

Any swatch of material should work - I like denim because it's a bit thicker, and any additional moisture will be sopped up nicely.

Remarkably, a quarter is the perfect size of fitting over a MAC pan:


Like magic!


There is a teeny gap around the edge, but if you use a swatch of thick material (like denim), there isn't any room available on the edges, giving a complete press setup.

I load up the press with the pan, the swatch, the quarter (be careful when lining up the quarter with the pan, you want to get it inside the pan edges perfectly so that when it sinks - as it will - it sinks into the pan. If it stops on the edge, you don't get a complete and even press), another quarter on top (because I've had stuff sink so dramatically that the first quarter went all the way in), and a half dollar on the very top (to distribute the pressure a bit).
With the swatch on, you can usualy press the quarter into the pan a bit with just your fingers, so it's quite easy to get the perfect alignment with that first quarter.


Ready for pressing


Then crank down. If you have a larger metal object to replace the half dollar with to distribute the weight better, then do so. I've had to rotate my wooden boards because they've started to warp a bit, but then they just warp back in the correct direction - so long as I flip them every few pans, they stay pretty straight. Crank it down as much as it will go. Crank it a few more times a few hours later. Try again the next day. Eventually you won't be able to crank much more. I usually let these go for about 2 days, because I'd rather take the extra day then have it crumble.
Pull the whole apparatus apart, and voila:



Pressed pigments/repaired eyeshadows that won't crumble, shear or fall apart! (at least, won't crumble, shear or fall apart any more than a regular eyeshadow would). You can get a tinier hetch marking with a smaller weave swatch - the denim I used has the big fat threads.

Note: both pans, when the alcohol-sludge mix, were totally full - see how much they sunk?

As far as color payoff and difference, this hasn't altered any of the finishes (and it shouldn't, in theory), and they act just like regular eyeshadow pans. I can get a light wash or a heavy brush full, depending on how I load.

I love it!

If you don't have access to a flower press, or some alternative, I'd encourage you to at least load up the denim swatch/quarter combo, put a big hardback on top of it, and then press down as hard as possible. I think it'll help it stay together much better.

GOOD LUCK! :D



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[info]phunkiediva
2006-03-10 02:22 am UTC (link)
Thank you for this tutorial!

Where do you get your empty MAC pans anyways?

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:27 am UTC (link)
You're quite welcome!

I've gotten them from various sources. I put out a call on MSS and got a few from there for cheap. The best source however was [info]reenisadork who remember I wanted some and included them as an extra because she is awesome like that.

I've seen a few people put out posts looking for them, and they can usually find some from other members in the community.

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:29 am UTC (link)
remembered* arg

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[info]phunkiediva
2006-03-10 02:38 am UTC (link)
lol thanks!

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[info]iamangelalynn
2006-03-10 02:25 am UTC (link)
wow very well done.

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:27 am UTC (link)
Thanks! :D

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[info]ralenth
2006-03-10 02:45 am UTC (link)
This is really cool. Now, to find a flower press!

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:50 am UTC (link)
Thanks! You can order the wee kit I linked to above for $6, but I've also seen mini presses all over the net :)

(I scouted out my local B&N, but they didn't actually have one in the store boo)

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[info]ralenth
2006-03-10 02:52 am UTC (link)
I will have to go tomorrow and check my BN out. I really want pressed pigments.

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:55 am UTC (link)
I've never scoped it out for such a thing, but I would guess that Michael's might have something similar if BN fails.

Either way - good luck! Pressed pigments are the shiz!

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[info]ralenth
2006-03-10 02:59 am UTC (link)
I'm approaching 50 pigments, so this would definitely save some space. :)

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 03:00 am UTC (link)
Holy crap! If you do it - post pictures please! I'd love to see this in action on a big scale :D

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[info]ralenth
2006-03-10 03:58 am UTC (link)
I'm going to get multiple presses, I think. I just need to get empty pans now. I only have one floating around because Embark broke a little while back.

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 04:46 am UTC (link)
My wee flower press could probably take 5 pans at the same time.

Put out a post on MSS or in here looking for empty pans - that's where I found all of mine :)

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[info]ralenth
2006-03-10 04:53 am UTC (link)
Oh, I'm going to give the other presses to my pigment loving friends. :)

I already put the pans in my MUA wishlist. I'm sure I'll tack on the desire for empty pans to my sale post tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help.

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[info]faded_memory
2006-04-21 07:08 pm UTC (link)
my swish e/s shattered when i dropped it, but luckily the pot was closed so i didn't really lose much product. i scraped out the swish shadow and put it in a little jar and kinda broke it up to make it into "swish pigment." XD then after seeing this tutorial, i decided to press swish back into it's original form. i took the empty swish pot and depotted it with a flat iron, then made that slushy rubbing alcohol / shadow paste mix and smoothed it over with a popsicle stick, then i let it dry for awhile.

then i followed your instructions, but i didn't have a flower press so i put the shadow underneath like 878979789789746516545646154651 books and kept it there for about a day and a half, and viola! - pressed swish. ^_^

Image hosting by Photobucket

it's a little uneven and the "hetch marks" are ridiculously large for an eyeshadow, but i didn't have any denim swatches that i could use, so i used a swatch from a clean white sock. XD not bad for a first try, though! i'm proud of myself. thank you so much for posting this! =D

about how many e/s pans do you think you could get with one jar of pigment? just curious. ^^;

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[info]organfailure
2006-04-21 11:51 pm UTC (link)
There must be something about Swish! I have a broken turned fixed one too.

I have no idea how many pans one could get out of a jar - I've never had a full jar of pigment. But the texture makes a huge difference. You'll get a lot more frost pans then you will matte pans. Matte pans are a bit of a bitch to work with since they dry so dense - they have to kind of be pressed slightly moist and then repressed when dry.

I would venture to say that for a non-matte you could probably get a pan per 1/4 tsp sample. How many 1/4tsps are in a jar I've no idea :)

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[info]ralenth
2006-04-23 01:32 am UTC (link)
Roughly 20.

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[info]ladybugz07
2006-03-10 03:00 am UTC (link)
Just FYI, Borders also sells the mini flower press... :)

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 03:02 am UTC (link)
Thanks! I've added that into the entry :)

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[info]ralenth
2006-03-10 03:29 am UTC (link)
Hooray! I'll check there too. :)

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[info]ladybugz07
2006-03-10 02:55 am UTC (link)
Just out of curiousity, how much pigment does it take to make a pressed pan? :)

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:59 am UTC (link)
Hrmm.... I'm going to guess here (since I didn't measure and I do mostly broken eyeshadows). But depending on the finish, I'd guess between 1/4tsp and 1/2tsp? Maybe a little more for a matte. Not a whole bunch - the eyeshadow pans are actually pretty small.

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[info]ladybugz07
2006-03-10 03:02 am UTC (link)
Wow, that's not very much, I just might have to try this... It sure would make pigments easier to travel with! :) Thank you!

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 03:47 am UTC (link)
Let us know how it goes!
Yeah - I took some pigments in pill containers last year, and it worked out great - except for the few that had cracks in them. Then those leaked out and went EVERYWHERE. It would have been much easier if they were in a solid form.

You're quite welcome!

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[info]estarness
2006-03-10 03:22 am UTC (link)
Niceee...now would you like to make me an old gold one? lol

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 03:45 am UTC (link)
When I got into the pigment pressing business with my army of flower presses - you'll be my first job :)

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[info]kannan
2006-03-10 03:35 am UTC (link)
ahh thank you!

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 03:45 am UTC (link)
You're welcome! :)

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[info]squeakdance
2006-03-10 05:24 am UTC (link)
Thank you so much for posting this! I can't seem to get pigments to work without the little tiny glitter bits going everywhere (including in my eyes, which scares the heck out of me), so I don't use them, but now I might be able to! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!!

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:39 pm UTC (link)
You're quite welcome!

I have a very similar problem with applying pigments in pigment form. I've had to put on teeny tiny bits at a time or I get it all over my face - my skills are seriously lacking :)

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[info]mylament
2006-03-10 07:35 am UTC (link)
ok maybe i missed it... so you first mix it up in the pan w/ alcohol then let it dry, then press it?

or do you mix it, press it while it's wet, then let it dry in warm air/oven?

thanks for the awesome idea :)

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[info]organfailure
2006-03-10 02:42 pm UTC (link)
Ayup! Mix it up, let it dry, then press. If you press when it's still wet, there's too much liquid coming off for the swatch to absorb, and it won't fully press into a cake. If it's kinda moist, lots of stuff will stick to the swatch, and when it dries, it's still settling into a particular order.

Since this stuff takes forever to dry, if it's not bone dry, that's totally fine. Just the drier the better I think - you want to get out as much air and moisture as possible when pressing it, so starting pretty dry helps out oodles.


You're most welcome!

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