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300M, Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, New Yorker, Vision
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| Odd HVAC question |
[Jun. 14th, 2007|07:56 pm] |
Has anyone ever bypassed the heater core in a 98-04 LH?
My girlfriend's got a 2000 Chrysler Intpreid (2.7L, gray market canadian car), and the heat seems to be permanently on. Her mechanical engineer stepdad suggested bypassing the heater core. I've thought of two ways to do this: a u-shaped pipe to connect the hoses where they go through the firewall, behind the throttle body, or a simple valve to shut off water flow in an easier-to-access spot. To me, the valve idea seems simpler, but I have doubts as to whether just shutting off water flow would be detrimental to the water pump/cooling system.
Any input? |
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| All-New Dodge Challenger & Chrysler Imperial |
[Jan. 4th, 2006|11:36 am] |
Like Challengers past, this modern version packs more than its share of muscle under the hood in the form of the 6.1-liter, 425-hp, 420-lb-ft Hemi V8, linked to a 6-speed manual transmission. DaimlerChrysler estimates the fully functional R/T show car should clear 0-to-60-mph in 4.5 seconds, the quarter-mile ran in 13 seconds flat and attain a top speed of 174 mph. So, if that's the R/T, what's in store for the SRT-8 version, huh Chrysler?
At the opposite extreme lies the luxurious Imperial riding on a 123-inch wheelbase, a three-inch stretch over the 300C. To achieve the proper proportions for the concept, the overall length grows 17 inches to 214 inches, and the overall height is six inches taller than a 300C. The car rides on massive 22-inch turbine-finned wheels and tires, with passengers sitting nearly seven inches higher than in the 300C. The Imperial show car carries over the 5.7-liter, 345-hp, 390-lb-ft Hemi V8 from the 300C including its 5-speed automatic slushbox.
Overall, these examples demonstrate the flexibility potential of the LX platform and clearly hides the future in plain sight. You'll probably be driving these before 2009, as DCX is planning to modify the specific sheetmetal to create the "Chrysler Barracuda" and "Dodge Dynasty" versions. |
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| Timing Belt Talk |
[Oct. 29th, 2005|03:10 am] |
Here's something you don't see everyday. Chrysler Corporation used two different timing belt sizes for the 1G 3.5L SOHC 24-valve.
1993 - 1994 #40219 $89.99
1995 - 1997 #40255 $50.99
But the 2G 3.2L SOHC 24-valve (and 3.5L) used only one.
1998 - 2004 #40295 $113.99
These are the official part numbers from Mopar and none of these rubberbands are cheap, unfortunately. And they wonder why I want to drive 3.3L OHV 12-valve instead. |
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| (no subject) |
[Aug. 4th, 2005|09:20 pm] |
Sooo... remember me from about a week or so ago?... Talking about how my 94 Concorde was doing funny lil things?
Well don't have to worry about that anymore. We were in a car accident yesterday, and everyone is fine. Except for the car. Totalled out.
So. With the insurance settlement, we'll prolly head out to the auctions or search for owners selling their own cars. Anyone have any suggestions on years, models, etc? I would like to stick to either a Concorde or Intrepid, since I like the nice mommy sized 4 door sedan.
Thanks for the ♥
Xed |
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| (no subject) |
[Jul. 30th, 2005|04:07 pm] |
Hi all ... just joined..
I am a long time mopar girl, daddy raised me right :>
So I thought this might be some insight to others, as well as maybe some people can offer me a bit of advice or at least ease my fears.
( Cross posted from my personal journal: ) |
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| I Hate OBD I, With A Passion |
[Jun. 28th, 2005|04:47 am] |
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But it doesn't mean I hate the LH. Just the fact of the matter is, all the 1993 - 1995 models had this bitch ass complex electrical network that once a glitch happens, you'll spend the next 20 years trying to figure out where the short or fault lies in. Screw that. I sold my 1994 3.5L. But all LH car are equipped with R134A a/c units. I miss the acceleration of the Intrepid ES, as I'm currently driving a Ford Escort GT. The little econo car will be my wife's next car after I sell the 1992 Lebaron. The classic K-car box is showing its age and consumes more oil that I would like. I'm attempting to pick up a 1996 - 1997 Intrepid ES, again probably with the 3.5L. The 3.3L, although tough as nails, just doesn't seem to inspire me with any supreme muscle car power. All 1996 and up vehicles have OBD II, a universal diagnostic adapter standarized by the government to make servicing electrical problems a breeze. Sadly, the 1996 - 1997 LH 3.5L engines will haunt you with four oxygen sensors, triggering possible foul language when you go to Autozone. But you'll save a lot more in the software repair department. I'm not considering the 2G versions as the battery is mounted in a awkward location limiting replacement access. Motherfuckers. New Mopar gets more and more difficult. Otherwise, I would love to get a 300M Special or Intrepid R/T. I was told the 1G 3.5L is a non-interference engine now, according to the owners forum. I'm not sure about the 2G 3.2L and 3.5L models though. |
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| Ludicrous Speed! |
[May. 28th, 2005|04:56 pm] |
My Intrepid ES at triple digit. Kids, don't try this at home. |
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| "Last Hope" History |
[May. 3rd, 2005|02:54 am] |
The year was 1988. The Viper was only a clay model. Lee Iacocca owned the rights to the Lamborghini nameplate. Tom Gale unveiled this new Chargold metallic styling study to the boss, a far fetched departure from the stately conservative K-car derived land yachts. It was also a market revolution in prototyping, officially billed as "the first fully-driveable concept car." This was the Chrysler Portofino By Lamborghini. The Portofino featured trademark Lamborghini's gull-wing doors up front while the rears opened in suicide fashion. An all-new 3.5L 225 hp 24-valve V6 engine was developed mounted amid ships powering all four wheels. The engine makes the cut on the assembly line for premium trim LH sedan models but installed in the nose rather motivating the front wheels. The all-wheel-drive, sadly, went to the scrap heap. Tires were 225/50-16, considered wide at that time. Although the show car never became a Lamborghini production vehicle, it clearly influenced future Chrysler designs and actually foreshadowed the cab-forward theme for the 1993 LH cars, especially the Intrepid. There is a strange story surrounding this car. While being transported, the semi-truck hauling the million-dollar concept vehicle was involved in an accident and the Portofino was nearly totaled. But it was lovingly put back together one piece at a time by the folks at Metal Crafters until it was in absolute flawless condition. The Portofino's new home is parked upstairs at the Walter P. Chrysler Museum in Auburn Hills, Michigan. |
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| Haha The Butt Of LH Lives! |
[Apr. 23rd, 2005|05:08 am] |
2006 Dodge Charger SRT-8
Here's another look at the Intrepid successor, an all-new LX sedan, the Dodge Charger. Notice how the tail lights and rear fascia still resemble the second generation (1998 - 2004) Intrepids no matter how you look at it, and not modeled after the neo-classic variety "Dukes Of Hazard" rust bucket vehicles of similar namesake. However, the gaudy rear wing wasn't necessary. Most of us can agree that we see some 300M on the new Chrysler 300/300C hindquarters as well. The greenhouses...well...are "cab-rearward." |
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| LH Redesigned + Rear-Wheel-Drive = LX |
[Apr. 19th, 2005|12:04 am] |
2006 Dodge Charger Daytona R/T
Limited production of 8,000 units. An extra 10 ponies gives the 5.7L OHV V8 a 350 total to play with, compared to the "standard" R/T trim level. Take your pick of "Go Man Go" and "Top Banana" paint schemes. Most likely to appeal to the retro crowd who believe nostalgic stickers and graphic add-ons are the best thing since slice cheese. A nod to the past? Yes. The hottest new Charger? No. See SRT-8.
2006 Dodge Charger R/T
About 60% of the all-new LX platform cars sold will be the mass-production Charger R/T. It makes do with 340 horsepower, very entertaining for a run-of-the-mill family four-door. Rear-wheel-drive, muscle car power, full-size dimensions, and aggressive styling certainly makes Camry and Accord drivers feel...insubstantial. SE and SXT designations will beat the heart of the old LH top dawg, the 250 hp 3.5L SOHC 24-valve V6.
2006 Dodge Charger SRT-8
How about a 425 hp 6.1L version of the Hemi? Zero to 60 mph in "well under five seconds." Automatic transmission too! If you want more bells and whistles, try the Chrysler 300C SRT-8, nearly identical in all mechanical aspects, but a tad heftier than Charger. However, no common body panels are shared. Top speed electronically limited to 155 mph. X-mas wishlist, here I come.
2005 Dodge Magnum RT
Why is this one "RT" instead of "R/T," we'll never know. What matters anyway? It has the same Hemi eight-cylinder powerplant as used in the Charger R/T and Chrysler 300C sedans. This maybe America's best value in new car buys as the station wagon factor has become cool again. The in-your-face proportions scream "I'm nothing else but a Dodge" and the front-end is downright menacing, echoing "son of Ram" cues. Add in the smoky burnout acceleration, great utility, and dealer incentive programs, and you have a frill-packed drag race machine that the Brady Bunch should have had on their driveway. A 200 hp 2.7L DOHC 24-valve V6 labeled SE is for the budget minded while the midlevel SXT brings the 3.5L back to the party. |
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| Additional Symptoms |
[Apr. 18th, 2005|04:08 pm] |
Sometimes when I start the car, everything on the dash goes on and goes off after a few seconds like it's suppose to, with the exception of the AIRBAG red light, which stays on completely until the next shutdown and restart. The seatbelt red light sometimes stays on, but goes off spontaneously without notice, more spastic than consistent. The speedometer would read up to 38 mph, get stuck and stay there in that notch until the transmission upshifts into OD at 50 mph, then the speedo would literally "jump" to the appropriate 50 mph reading. Everything 50 mph and up displays correctly until all the needles suddenly dip to 0 value reading simulateously, but returns back to normal readings in seconds after they take a "group break." This pattern is repetitive every couple of seconds, occuring whenever it wants to without a fixed time frame count, varying in the physical seconds it takes to "bounce" the needles. So between 39 mph and 49 mph, the speedo is retardo refusing to move until a minimum of 50 mph is achieved. It works fine from 0 mph to 37 mph perfectly fine. Say, I'm going 55 mph and suddenly had to hit the brakes to slow down and stop for a traffic light. The speedo needle would slow itself to the 50 mph notch, get stuck there for a few seconds, and then "jump" towards the bottom from 37 mph and lower in a jerky fashion, smoothing itself out to 0 mph at rest while idling.
No trouble codes are able to be retrieved because when I cycle the key attempting to retrieve them on the ACC position, the MIL flashes off, then on, only ONCE, but stays on the entire time while I'm driving until the next restart. AIRBAG light and seatbelt light hang around litted as well during this startup procedure.
Gearshift indicator does the following with engine on, spontaneously:
1. lights up in all colors through all notch selections
2. turns off completely when the needles suddenly dip to 0 read value
3. stays lighted in Park only no matter what gear I'm in
4. works correctly as litted in proper notch selection
5. not lighted in any notch selections altogether, in other words nothing
On a lighter note for #1 and #3, the illuminated gear notch selection(s) would not go off after the engine has been shut-off and key has been removed from the ignition until after 3 seconds (exact count). |
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| 1/2 Of Electrical Gremlin Still Lives |
[Apr. 17th, 2005|05:23 pm] |
Part of problem solved! It was the ignition switch. I purchased a brand new Mopar from the Chrysler dealer special order and my following came back: a/c, power windows, speed-sensitive steering, turn signals, and wipers. Assholes at Autozone sold me a defective switch and failed to admit it. I should have known since the unit was opened from the plastic bag, more than likely a customer return as-is.
The mexican jumping bean dash gauges still has no cure. All the needles bounce inconsistently in silmultaneous fashion, while the MIL + seatbelt + battery lights in red flash at the same time together. The gearshift indicator plays along and lights up completely in rainbow but flashes off when the needles dip back down to 0 read value. This is irritating as I can't tell how fast I'm going, or what my engine temperature or fuel level is. Thankfully, my overhead console readouts all work, so the DTE and mpg info substitutes. Bad output sensor on the transmission extension housing, possibly? |
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| Haunted By More Electrical Gremlins |
[Apr. 8th, 2005|05:35 am] |
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My car still rough idles a bit at traffic lights. I decided to cycle the key switch to pull some codes after getting a CEL during routine driving, which disappears when I restart the car. I got a 12, 32, and 55. Bad EGR apparently. Twelve is battery disconnect, and fifty-five is end of summary, according to Chiltons. I went to start the car six hours later. Whoa! My gearshift indicator lights stayed completely on after the engine was on and all the residual dash lights remained on along with it. The message center in the middle portion of the dash for the traction control and ABS indicators remain to function correctly. I had to take the car to get the transmission floor shift interlock recall performed anyhow. Dealership insisted I should replace the alternator due to whine and the gremlin lights would go away. I bought a new one and did the job, which certainly made no difference. Turns out the "whine" wasn't a whine afterall, it was the belt's cutout track pattern that made a slight whistle under hard acceleration and erratic idle. The dash have been very inconsistent, ranging from jumping bean speedo, tach, fuel, and temp gauges to airbag and seatbelt red indicators staying on all the time while driving. The seatbelt light doesn't stay on sometimes. The airbag one does. The gearshift indicator now stays stucked in "P" no matter what gear I'm in. However, once in awhile, the gearshift light lodges itself in the "R" slot, or works 100% altogether until I shut off and restart the car. The speedometer refuses to read past the 40 mph mark, keeping itself frozen at 38 mph even when I'm actually going about 50 mph. Sometimes when I hit an expansion joint or pothole, the speedometer would jump to the actual speed I'm going, for example 55 mph, then dip back down to 38 mph whenever it feels like it. The rest of the other needles seem to enjoy dancing with it as if it were the Jackson Five. The keyswitch has very little resistance to start the engine, and requires none at all to barely even touch it to cut it back off. It won't stay on the ACC position unless if I hold it there. I've also notice if I hit a massive pothole, it jiggles the keys sufficiently enough where my engine totally helps itself to shutting off while in gear. This has happen occasionally and starting to get on my nerves. A couple of times, I start the engine and the key springs itself back off shutting the engine down. Aggravation indeed. Granted, the key can't come out unless in "P" or "N" after the factory shift interlock recall was performed. Now, the key switch cycling method to pull trouble codes don't even work. I tried it and the CEL comes on, flashes once, and then stays on, while the seatbelt and airbag lights go off simultaneously. The CEL remains lighted until I restart, returning the gremlins back to usual. I've been driving with this annoying glitch for three weeks now and it certainly makes me a bait for another speeding ticket due to the possessed gauge cluster. Is it time for a new ignition switch and key lock cylinder? Or possibly a more expensive situation, like bad output sensor and BCM? |
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| Jeepers Leakers |
[Mar. 20th, 2005|04:41 am] |
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Transmission and power steering pump are leaking. New filter and gasket installed on 42LE, including another flush with Mopar 7176. No more leaky tranny. Shifts like brand new again. As for the power steering gusher, I'll let it ride out for another week before I will replace it. Too bad it wasn't the cheap hose. What do I expect? It's an 11 year old car. I can't complain as the Intrepid has been very reliable for me as a daily driver. I had a big guy security guard at work help me undo the PCV vacuum hose so I can remove and replace the valve with a brand new one. That bitch ass hose was stuck on there like glue, mostly from the carbon deposits and sludgy varnish. The idle quality is now near perfect. And I bet it can be "truly perfect" instead of just "near" if I can gut out the EGR system. Need new belts for the a/c compressor and serpentine alternator drive. The current ones are starting to show some cracks. |
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| Honey, I Shrunk My LH! |
[Mar. 10th, 2005|04:33 am] |
Well, not exactly. My "full-size" edition is actually a teal metallic color, while the mini-me iteration is from the blue metallic variety. This is a 1994 Dodge Intrepid ES 1:24 diecast dealer promotional replica manufactured by Brookfield Collectors Guild, whom is no longer in business after the buyout from Action Racing Collectibles (RCCA). The hand-assembled model is very realistic and the resemblence to my life-size automobile is quite remarkable to scale. It features ALL-FOUR opening doors, hood, and trunk details. When you do lift the hood, a miniature 3.5L engine is displayed in nice fashion. Sorry 3.3L folks, I haven't seen the base engine in any of these collectibles. If this is a must have for your hobby collection, I recommend shopping eBay. Keep in mind that they are pretty rare being a discontinued item for many years. But the chances of locating a mint-in-box condition unit is actually not extremely difficult. You just have to keep looking daily. The releases include: 1993 - 1997 Concorde, Intrepid, Vision; 1994 - 1997 LHS; and 1994 - 1995 New Yorker. Of course, many other numerous Mopar passenger vehicles were crafted by Brookfield Collectors Guild, including the JA "Cloud Car" series and numerous configurations of Neon, just to mention a few. Good luck in your search! |
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| Driveability Improved Another Notch |
[Feb. 24th, 2005|09:11 am] |
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Just installed new wires, the Ultra Spark generics from Autozone with lifetime warranty. Six new platinum spark plugs from Robert Bosch. The car no longer stumbles violently sounding like a 2x4 went through my engine being thrown back and forth at 55 mph. It still does feels a little reluctant on initial take off at parking lot speeds and has a noticeable vibration during idling with the a/c on and shudders the driver side door panel when the cycling switch goes. Worn out pullies maybe? Going to try another trick. I'm disconnecting the battery for 24 hours to see what happens once the computer resets itself. If that doesn't work, I'm buying a new ignition coil as that piece has seen better days. The old battery is history, spewing acid everywhere. Dropped in a new Everstart from Wal-Mart with 1 year warranty. No trouble codes were generated, but even still, I'm wondering if the idle air control has anything to do with it. I must have high-centered something very big because my oil pan is dented so badly and that needs to be replaced before I can even change the oil again. Price of admission includes $65 for the pan itself, $45 for the new gasket, and $105 for the labor installation as I do not have patience or time to take apart the numerous assemblies just to get the pan off. The suspension seems to bottom out with a solid and annoying "thump" everytime a wheel drops into a pothole. That calls for four new shock absorbers, as well as two front tires while I'm at it. Transmission fluid flush and filter for $120 also on the agenda requiring ATF 3, no exceptions. Dexron is evil. |
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| Electrical Gremlins Solved? |
[Feb. 17th, 2005|04:16 am] |
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Ever wonder why such little things make your ownership experience nerve racking? Certainly does for me. It's not the alternator. It's not the transaxle. The Intrepid needs some spark plugs, new wires, and a coil pack. It's a shame such minor details can make such a beautiful car on the hate lists of critics such as Consumer Reports. What basically happens tp the 42LE trannies is that they burn and blow up by insufficient signals generated by the engine's throttle position sensors. Since the 42LE is a completely electronically controlled gearbox, it doesn't know when to shift at all. Self destruction is the enemy here. I remembered a woman with a 1996 LHS stated how occasionally at highway speeds, the transmission would buck like a wild bronco hunting back and forth violently, just like how my car was doing the same. She said it felt like someone threw a 2x4 straight into her engine. My car no longer does that because I put some used wires into the cylinders with low compression. I have to wait until pay day to purchase the new goodies, so the ghetto rigged editions will have to do for now. The idling quality has improved, but not perfected. But I'm getting somewhere. Next items to check include the EGR and PCV valves. |
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| Wasn't The Tranny Afterall |
[Feb. 10th, 2005|03:28 am] |
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After driving it more and more, I just found out something. There's nothing wrong with my 42LE gearbox, it might need a fluid flush and filter change. My frickin alternator has gone bad. The first initial clue is that when I started the car while leaving Wal-Mart. It stalled out on me. I turned the key again and it this time I gave her some gas and held it at 2000 rpm. When I turned on the dashboard lights, the engine sounded like it wanted to stall out again. I stabbed the gas once more to keep the engine revving. As soon as I put it into "drive," the dashboard lights dimmed and the engine sounded as if it lost its breath. The transmission made a harsh clunk and then it shifted finally moving the car with a stuttering throttle input note. Basically, with the bad alternator, the car has no sufficient juice to shift the tranny because it is fully-adaptive electronically control, complete with the fishing reel actuation noise like all FWD Mopar cars. There is no lope or miss in the cruising speed process as the 3.5L coasts very smoothly at 55 - 65 mph, which leaves me to believe the spark plugs, wires, and coil pack are probably fine for now. Plus, isn't the Intrepid's dashboard lighting suppose to be ice blue and not a light green? The bad alternator sets off all the bad signals regardless even if there isn't any other problem. Apparently, that sucks, but it does save me some big bucks from doing any major transaxle service. |
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