Sarah (![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif){kind=small} fire4ice) wrote in ![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/community.gif){kind=small} knitting,@ 2005-03-16 23:06:00 |
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Cascade 220 striped raglan pattern
I've finally gotten a picture of the sweater I posted about earlier...
I apologize for the image quality; it was the best I could get before my batteries died.
Sizing: Small, finished measurement 33.5"
Hints for resizing
Materials:
Cascade 220, 7 colors (uses about half a ball each)
29" circular needle, DPN's (I used 10's. I knit VERY tightly. Start swatching with 8's.)
24" or 29" circular needle 2 sizes smaller than that used for the body, for the neck ribbing only.
Gauge:
4.5 sts / 6 rows per inch
Body:
Cast on 150 stitches with cable cast on in color 1. Join and work in k3p2 rib for 15 rows.
Knit 16 rows in color 2, 16 rows in color 3, 16 rows in color 4, and 16 rows in color 5.
Put on waste yarn, with 4 stitches at each underarm on separate holders. Leave the last yarn end long for a 3-needle bind-off and closing up any holes; do the same on the sleeves.
Sleeves (make 2):
Cast on 45 stitches with color 1. Join and work in k3p2 rib for 22 rows.
Switch to color 2. Knit 22 rows. On the 23rd row, increase by 2 stitches.
Repeat for colors 3 and 4.
Knit 23 rows with color 5.
Put 4 stitches at each underarm on stitch holders, and put the rest of the sleeve stitches on waste yarn.
Yoke:
Transfer the stitches from the back of the sweater, sleeve 1, front, and sleeve 2 onto the circular needles, with a stitch marker between each piece, a different colored marker at the end of the round, and the underarm stitches still on holders.
Knit 2 rows with color 6, stopping 3 stitches short of the end-of-row marker. For the first few rows, you may need to rearrange the cable when you are knitting the sleeve stitches to avoid stretching them out.
Decrease row: K2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK. Repeat the decreases at the other 3 markers.
Knit one row.
Do six more decrease rows, alternating with plain rows.
Switch to smaller needles. Knit in k3p2 rib for 16 rows.
This goes against everything you've ever been told, but bind off AS TIGHTLY AS YOU CAN. If you don't, your sweater will fall off. And catch on fire. Go down needle sizes if you have to.
Finishing:
Turn the sweater inside out and do a 3-needle bind-off on the underarm stitches. Sew up any holes. Weave in all the ends. This will take longer than knitting the sweater did. The end.
Hints for resizing:
Adding 10 stitches to the body will add about 2" in width.
If you make the body larger, or want a smaller neckline (the pattern as written is nearly off the shoulders), you might want to do an extra decrease row or two at the top.
For larger sizes, do more frequent sleeve increases - maybe one in the middle of each color section as well as at the end.
If you can't get close to row gauge, you will need recalculate the number of rows in each stripe.
This is the first pattern I've written for human consumption. If you decide to make this sweater, please post the results and give me some feedback on it!
I've finally gotten a picture of the sweater I posted about earlier...
I apologize for the image quality; it was the best I could get before my batteries died.
Sizing: Small, finished measurement 33.5"
Hints for resizing
Materials:
Cascade 220, 7 colors (uses about half a ball each)
29" circular needle, DPN's (I used 10's. I knit VERY tightly. Start swatching with 8's.)
24" or 29" circular needle 2 sizes smaller than that used for the body, for the neck ribbing only.
Gauge:
4.5 sts / 6 rows per inch
Body:
Cast on 150 stitches with cable cast on in color 1. Join and work in k3p2 rib for 15 rows.
Knit 16 rows in color 2, 16 rows in color 3, 16 rows in color 4, and 16 rows in color 5.
Put on waste yarn, with 4 stitches at each underarm on separate holders. Leave the last yarn end long for a 3-needle bind-off and closing up any holes; do the same on the sleeves.
Sleeves (make 2):
Cast on 45 stitches with color 1. Join and work in k3p2 rib for 22 rows.
Switch to color 2. Knit 22 rows. On the 23rd row, increase by 2 stitches.
Repeat for colors 3 and 4.
Knit 23 rows with color 5.
Put 4 stitches at each underarm on stitch holders, and put the rest of the sleeve stitches on waste yarn.
Yoke:
Transfer the stitches from the back of the sweater, sleeve 1, front, and sleeve 2 onto the circular needles, with a stitch marker between each piece, a different colored marker at the end of the round, and the underarm stitches still on holders.
Knit 2 rows with color 6, stopping 3 stitches short of the end-of-row marker. For the first few rows, you may need to rearrange the cable when you are knitting the sleeve stitches to avoid stretching them out.
Decrease row: K2tog, K1, slip marker, K1, SSK. Repeat the decreases at the other 3 markers.
Knit one row.
Do six more decrease rows, alternating with plain rows.
Switch to smaller needles. Knit in k3p2 rib for 16 rows.
This goes against everything you've ever been told, but bind off AS TIGHTLY AS YOU CAN. If you don't, your sweater will fall off. And catch on fire. Go down needle sizes if you have to.
Finishing:
Turn the sweater inside out and do a 3-needle bind-off on the underarm stitches. Sew up any holes. Weave in all the ends. This will take longer than knitting the sweater did. The end.
Hints for resizing:
Adding 10 stitches to the body will add about 2" in width.
If you make the body larger, or want a smaller neckline (the pattern as written is nearly off the shoulders), you might want to do an extra decrease row or two at the top.
For larger sizes, do more frequent sleeve increases - maybe one in the middle of each color section as well as at the end.
If you can't get close to row gauge, you will need recalculate the number of rows in each stripe.
This is the first pattern I've written for human consumption. If you decide to make this sweater, please post the results and give me some feedback on it!
