Murdercitygrrrl ([info]murdercitygrrrl) wrote in [info]craftgrrl,
@ 2005-01-23 15:41:00
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Screenprinting: a tutorial and other info.
I printed these shirts last summer, and never put them up so thought I'd share.
These shirts were made in conjunction with a fundraiser for a photography scholarship in honor of one of my mother's friends that died in a car wreck last year.
The image I used was one of his photographs.

Screen printing paint isn't paint, its "ink" but that's not what you need to know. For tshirts, what you need to know is that regardless of what paint, ink, or whatever you use, if its not for tshirts you'll need to get some fabric medium. There's a picture of it below, and you can find it with the acrylic paints in most craft stores or craft sections in department stores.

You will need:
a screen
your image
a shirt
screenprint paint/ink for shirts OR screenprinting ink + fabric medium
fixative or some other method of putting your image on the screen (see below)
squeege
a nearby sink: this could get messy



You will start out making your screen.

Adventures in making screens: It will start out pretty, clean and unused: your blank canvas. I used the light-burning method to make my screen. Here's how it works: you brush this stuff on your screen and let it set for a while. I forget how long, but I let mine set for a little too long the first time. After letting it set, you'll need to put your design onto the screen. I took my design to kinkos and had them put it on a transparency. I put the transparency on top of the screen, and then used a light to burn the image into the screen.

If you are using the light-fixative method of screenmaking, too much heat too close to your screen will ruin it. You will hear this over and over, and that's because its no joke. You won't be able to get the screen goop out, and your screen is shot. Screens cost around $20 each, so you're going to want to keep them re-usable. After putting the goop on the screen you'll need to let it sit in a totally dark space.

I used too much of the light fixative goop on it and it went on very thick, but (after one botched attempt in which I applied too much heat and burnt the whole screen) I was able to get a good, clean screen. Your screen will just be blue--I forgot to get a picture before I actually burned the image on, so don't let this confuse you.
My screen





For my lighting source, I ended up using one of those tin-backed garage lights and a 200 watt Phillips Duramax bulb. I put this about 2 feet above my screen.





After burning the image onto your screen, you'll need to scrub it. The light fixative burns all of the (we'll call it) background into the screen so that it creates a covering that the ink can't go through. If you look at my screen, its the blue part. The parts of the screen that are covered (the design on my transparency) will not get "heat set" into the screen. So after burning for the alloted amount of time, you wash your screen and the parts you want the ink to go through will be washable (the white parts of my screen.)

You don't have to use the light-fixative setting stuff for your screen. You can use tape, you can do it a ton of different ways. Check the memories and you'll see a ton of suggestions.


Other supplies





I didn't have tshirt screen printing paint so I added fabric medium to my regular screen printing paint. Seemed to work fine. I did include washing instructions with each shirt with a reminder to wash inside out and hang to dry.

To actually to the paint on the shirt:
Put some paint on your screen--I would do a thick line across the top of the screen. Then I would run the squeege down the screen (before putting it on the shirt) to even the coat of ink out across the screen. Then hold your screen over the shirt and MAKE SURE its when you want it. Hold the screen down very tightly and run your squeege up and down and back and worth a few times to ensure that all of the open spaces are coated evently.

Pick your screen up SLOWLY--otherwise you might pick the shirt up and it might fall and crumple--which means wet paint everywhere and a ruined shirt.


My assistant. He's cute.




While not necessary, its nice to have someone else around to help you hold the screen down while you are pulling the paint across the screen. Because unfortunately, I don't have 4 hands. Otherwise, its a good idea to secure your screen with some clamps to ensure that it doesn't move and you get a clean print.







Test Print!
I highly suggest you do one of these to make sure you like your color combos, etc.



This reminded me to make sure the edges of the screen are masked. I knew that the outline of the page would leave paint, so that wasn't a big deal. But I also taped the edges of the screen your screen because you are pushing the paint to the edges with the squegee (sp?) so it has a tendency to puddle there as you are making the prints.

After putting on the ink, let your shirts dry. This shouldn't take long at all. Mine were dry within 2 hours, tops.

AS SOON as you are done hanging up the last shirt to dry WASH YOUR SCREEN to remove the ink from the screen. I used dish detergent and my hand. I did use a dish scrubber (lightly) in a few spots where the ink was being stubborn. If the ink stains your screen don't worry--its just your screen that's stain and the stain won't affect later uses.

Changing colors: If you are going to use more than one color ink, you'll need to wash your screen inbetween color changes.

You're going to need to heat set your shirts. I did this with an iron. 5 minutes on the front and 5 on the back.
I used a tshirt scrap between the iron and the paint so as not to get paint on my iron.





For washing, if you didn't see what I wrote above, be gentle! Wash your clothing item inside out and hang to dry and your image will last much, much longer.






Additional notes:
I used a screen printing kit that I got at Michael's Crafts. I also got my screen printing paint at Michael's. I got an extra screen at Michael's. I got my shirt at Wal-Mart because I was on a very limited timetable and wasn't able to order them. (They would be cheaper if you order in bulk, and if you do, be nice to your fellow women and men and try somewhere that's against using sweat-shops for their products.)

I'm sure I've left a ton of things out, so if you have any questions, just ask. KEEP IN MIND that there are also a ton of resources in the memories and elsewhere online.

EDIT: Also read the commments made by [info]crafty_dame below, as she's got some really good information.


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[info]view_from_here
2005-01-23 10:10 pm UTC (link)
You're supposed to use duct tape around your screen so no ink leaks around the edges. then, just put a line of ink on one end and drag it across to get a smoother layer of paint.

i don't mean to come off as snobbish, just that i'm in a silkcreening class right now and thought i'd make a couple points. :)

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[info]deadxmeat
2005-01-24 01:04 am UTC (link)
from my experience, we've always used painter's masking tape.

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[info]view_from_here
2005-01-24 01:06 am UTC (link)
well, i'm sure that works fine, too. I just mean that it needs tape since the filler stuff doesn't always cover as well around the edges where things are uneven.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 02:04 am UTC (link)
It didn't come off as snobbish--I didn't know what I was doing as I had never tried before. I found that masking tape worked just fine.

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[info]view_from_here
2005-01-24 02:08 am UTC (link)
Ooh, well, glad it worked for you, then! They did come out really well.

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[info]deadxmeat
2005-01-24 01:07 am UTC (link)
great tutorial. and nice design!

for further information regarding silkscreening:
http://www.aaartshirts.com/intro.html - its a very detailed instructional website for screen printing and the various methods.

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[info]crafty_dame
2005-01-24 02:20 am UTC (link)
i hope this doesn't sound bitchy, but i've done a lot of silkscreening over the past 8ish years, so i thought i'd add a bit of info. i really don't mean it to be bitchy. it can be really hard to find info on silkscreening for someone who's just starting up, and i find people get really snotty about "the right way to do it", even if "the wrong way" works just as well.

first, you can actually leave the emulsion on the screen for a really long time and it won't hurt it. as long as it's in an air tight place, they can be stored for up to 6-8 months before you burn your image into them. i'm not sure what you did the first time where you thought you'd left it on too long, but you really didn't.

for the transparencies, make sure your image is very crisp and clear. if the ink on the transparency isn't thick enough, use two transparencies taped together with an eensy bit of clear scotch tape (not the magic stuff, the clear stuff).

for squeeges, since they're ridiculously expensive, you can use plastic dry wall knives from home depot, and they work fine. home depot also sells a few sizes of squeegees in the tile section, but there aren't many choices for size.

when rinsing your screen to wash off the emulsion, or to wash out the ink, you want to use water pressure instead of scrubbing when at all possible, because it is possible to start to scrub off the burned on emulsion. (i love my detachable shower head!)

definitely use tape. i'd think duct tape would be a pain in the ass, because it's goopy, but painter's tape or masking tape works well. tape the edges of your design and then keep taping until you get to wood sides of your screen. put tape about half way up the wood sides, and that makes it MUCH easier to clean the paint out of edges.

it's insanely easy to make your own screens, and you can make 5 or 6 for less than $20. and screens are reusable as well, you just need to buy the emulsion remover. i use the poly screen fabric, i find it holds up much better than the actual silk, and is about $40 LESS per foot. and while the art supply will sometimes try to tell you that you MUST use the fancy silkscreening frame piecing, i find them extremely bulky, and have had much better results with canvas stretchers that range in price from $0.75 to $1.50 per side (so you need 4). i've also used old pictures frames that were sturdy enough.

i wrote up a bunch of info about it for someone else a while ago, here - http://www.livejournal.com/community/craftgrrl/4173931.html

hope some of that helps!


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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 02:59 am UTC (link)
I was just writing about what I did and how it worked for me. If you do it another way that's fine.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:00 am UTC (link)
And if you think the way I did it was awful, since you're a mod, would you like me to remove the post?

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[info]crafty_dame
2005-01-24 03:11 am UTC (link)
dude, chill.

i'm not a mod, and i'm not saying that you did it wrong. i'm giving more info, that's all. and i said that i hate it when people say that one way is the right way, so why would i turn around and do that? i'm just giving some other suggestions because you said you'd never done it before. you said, I'm sure I've left a ton of things out, i'm just adding some stuff.

i corrected you about leaving the emulsion on for too long, yes. unfortunately, you were wrong about that. no big deal.

i clarified about the transparencies in case someone else tried it who hadn't thought of that.

i gave another option for squeegees that's less expensive. i never said you couldn't use the sqeegees.

i mentioned the water thing vs scrubbing because it really sucks when you scrub off part of your design and have to start over. i'd hate for that to happen to you, or anyone else.

you said yourself that you should have used tape around the edges. i just said that if you use more tape, it makes clean up easier. you didn't bite the head off of the other person who mentioned it, why me?

and you said that you bought your screen, so i gave you some info about how to make your own for way cheaper.

i don't understand what the problem here is. the whole point of craftgrrl is to share ideas, inspire each other and learn from each other. i'm sharing my experiences, there no need to be bitchy.

i'm trying to be helpful, so sue me.


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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:16 am UTC (link)
I was being sincere, not bitchy, as I didn't want to spread incorrect information. I apologize if you thought my comment was biting--it wasn't intended that way.
I just took what you said the wrong way--I thought you were saying I had done it all wrong and was an idiot. Sorry for mistaking your intent.

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[info]crafty_dame
2005-01-24 03:19 am UTC (link)
no, you didn't do it all wrong at all. especially considering that this was your first time, you did an awesome job.

it's just that i've made most of the mistakes i've mentioned over the years, so i thought i'd tell you before you did them too.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:27 am UTC (link)
I edited my comment to tell readers to make sure and read your comments since they contain a lot of good info--I hope that's ok. Are you still peeved at me?

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[info]crafty_dame
2005-01-24 03:36 am UTC (link)
that's totally fine. i'm not peeved as long as you're not peeved!

let this comment thread be an example to all of how difficult it can be to understand people's intent through typing!

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:42 am UTC (link)
I totally wasn't peeved in the first place! That comment really did sound like I was trying to be snippy, but I swear that's not how I meant it. When I read your comment I just thought "OHMYGOD I just told everyone the exact wrong way to do everything and this chick is going to kill me for telling people how to do it all wrong!"

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can i cut in?
[info]bootscoot76
2005-12-10 08:22 pm UTC (link)
you guys are retarded.

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Re: can i cut in?
[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-12-12 03:25 am UTC (link)
You do realize that this post is almost a year old, right?

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Re: can i cut in?
[info]bootscoot76
2005-12-13 02:31 pm UTC (link)
yep. i know. i just did a google search and found that page and when i read it, it just made me laugh. you guys are silly.

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[info]veverde
2006-04-28 03:58 am UTC (link)
hmm, I'm looking for a place to buy some poly screen fabric locally. i went to the art supply and they don't have it. I know Michael's has stretcher bars so I'm going to go buy some. I called Hancock fabrics and she said they had a whole bunch of different types of tulle, and taht there was a specific one that was polyester called "illusion" that has tiny holes and should work. do you think that would do it? /:

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this is me. just a different lj.
[info]little_ms_me
2006-04-28 07:46 am UTC (link)
if your art supply place doesn't have it, i don't know. i buy it from a store called opus, but i don't know if they have other stores. most craft stores don't seem to carry silkscreening supplies.

i think you'd have to experiment with the different kinds of tulle. you want one with a really tight weave, or else your design will look somewhat "pixelated". i've used organza (i think it was organza), which is like tulle but even tighter, and it worked okay, but didn't have the same amount of give in the fabric, and it started to get stretched out from running the squeegee across it too many times. it would probably work fine if you weren't planning on doing a lot of prints.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:04 am UTC (link)
I actually just edited some of the stuff in the post where I might not have been clear enough, in re: to some of the stuff you commented on.

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[info]pmthreads
2005-01-24 12:41 pm UTC (link)
Can you explain how you attach the screen fabric to the canvas stretchers?

Also, where can you get the poly screen fabric? And elmulsion, and emulsion remover?... Would these be at the craft store, or would you have to order them online?

I am so eager to try this all out & was just planning on using the embroidery hoop method that was in the memories...although that still sounds nice & easy. In that tutorial she used a brush to stipple the ink in place ~ do you think these are bad ideas?

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[info]pmthreads
2005-01-24 12:52 pm UTC (link)
I just read through the info on the link you posted, and you explained how to get the fabric onto the canvas. I am thinking I will use the emboidering loops just so that I can use the same frame again & again without restapling.

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bklyndoll
2005-02-19 12:46 pm UTC (link)
where do you get your poly screen fabric?

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[info]suddenprose
2005-08-17 02:08 pm UTC (link)
Is your icon Maya the Bee? That old nickelodeon show?

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bklyndoll
2005-08-17 09:26 pm UTC (link)
yes it is

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[info]tummymunkey
2005-01-24 03:09 am UTC (link)

do you have to worry about leaving inky stains on the next shirt if you want to reposition it with the inky screen you just used?

awesome tutorial by the way.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:13 am UTC (link)
I'm not quite sure I understand the question, but when you put the screen down on your next shirt, you're going to lay it down where you want it and run the ink. As long as you don't accidentally move it, you should be fine. There shouldn't be any ink on the back of the screen that will get anywhere but the empty places in the screen that the ink will go through (the white parts.) As long as you remeber to tape the edges, that is.

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[info]crafty_dame
2005-01-24 03:21 am UTC (link)
FYI, in the nicest way possible, if you do "accidentally move it" and some ink gets on the back, you can usually lift the ink off with masking tape (sometimes it takes a few tries), and that will save you having to wash the whole screen and wait for it to dry whewn you're in the middle of printing.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-01-24 03:26 am UTC (link)
I did have that problem with one of my shirts, and that's the method I used to fix the problem too. It worked fine for me.

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[info]murdercitygrrrl
2005-12-20 05:16 pm UTC (link)
Try a kitchen scrubbing sponge for non-stick pans, use gentle pressure and dishwashing detergent. If you have a kitchen sprayer, scrub a little and then spray, repeat.

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