Hi everyone,

there have been a few mentions of 'turn-of-cloth' here lately, and though I think I understand the concept, I'm not really sure how to apply it to corsetmaking! Do you cut the layers in different sizes, or do you sew them together differently? It seems this is a concept that I really need to get before I 'level up', and I think the corsetmakers who take it into account do the most beautiful work. Is there anyone who could explain it to me?

Many thanks!

I recently finished a dusky rose (it's super pale, almost grey-rose actually) and black satin coutil overbust for a very close petite friend, and decided to make a comprehensive dress-diary this time since I so often forget to take photographs as I go. That said, I still failed to get some key images this time, and it has become more of a "musing aloud" than a "dress diary", apologies.

This corset was made at a distance using measurements provided by the model (and she did a very good job of taking her own stats considering it isn't easy!) and without a mock-up or fitting. She has a slight sway back and very small frame so it was a new challenge for me, but we did okay :-)

[x-posted to corsetry, sans construction info]

( It's very picture and text heavy people... )

I am currently working on a Victorian re-enactment corset that includes quilted gores. I took detailed pictures of the gore construction and insertion and am posting them here in case anyone is interested. As with anything else in corsetry, I'm sure there are other ways to do them. Some alternatives are mentioned along the way.

( Warning: Lots and Lots of Photos and Text Under the Cut )


Close-up of the two bust gores, fully inserted. I used a close zig-zag stitch to finish the bottom edge of the gores. Other decorative stitches, flossing, or straight stitches are all options for finishing the corners of the gores.



Thanks for reading! Please let me know if you found this useful or helpful, and would like to see more demos like this in the future.

Hi everyone,

I am making my first single layer corset. I am trying to flat fell the seams and am not having a great deal of luck so I'm hoping someone can help me! The first seam I did from the wrong side and it looked great from that side but the stitching wandered all over the place on the right side. I tried sewing from the right side and it's been working better but the stitches don't always pick up the fabric where I need them to on the wrong side of the fabric. (I hope that makes sense.) Does anyone have any hints on how to do this better because it's very frustrating so far!

I was wondering what ya'll recommend to use to create pretty curves when drafting patterns. I can freehand them, but can't always get them even.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I wanted something plain and simple, and I tried some new things with this corset. I'm generally happy with the results, but have some questions.



( more pictures and questions )

Sorry I haven't been posting or reading very much of late. I've had a number of projects going on, and I though a couple details from one of them might be of interest to the group.

I'm taking a slightly different approach to construction on a current corset project. The cover fabric proved particularly difficult to work with, and very prone to pulling at the seams, so I decided to try the "Heat & Bond" approach and treat the cover fabric as part of the outer core layer. Normally, I apply the cover layer at the end, and it covers all the stitches created by attaching waist tape and inserting boning.

A few weeks back, I remember seeing a post asking about attaching waist tape to single-core corsets without having the tacking stitches show through to the outside of the corset. The solution I used in this case will work just as well for single-core construction, and for open-seam construction. I use folded seam construction, so I tacked the waist tape to the seam allowance only, pulling each section taught as I moved from left to right and matching the center of the waist tape to my waistline marks.

( Photos Under Cut )

As for using "Heat & Bond" to fuse the cover fabric to the outer core layer, I believe that in this case it is working rather well. I don't remember who it was that posted about using this technique, but I do appreciate the suggestion. I won't be using this technique frequently, but I think there are times (like this) when it will be invaluable.

The Heat & Bond did drastically change the stiffness of the fabric, so much so that it acts rather similar to vinyl. When ironing the seams, I needed to be very careful that I was able to mold the fabric around the seam into the final shape, because the fabric stayed mostly in the position where it was heated and cooled. Ironed seams stayed exactly where I put them once they cooled.

Over on my LJ there is a step-by-step diary (almost, I didn't have a camera for most of it) of this corset, which I feel quite harsh towards now... I only finished it a couple of weeks ago, and already I feel like I can (and do) make better work. But this is the point... each piece can be better than the last if one pays attention and adopts a problem-solving attitude.

But for now, here's a pretty picture or two :-)

( Some pictures and thoughts. )

Hello again,
So I got my pattern in the mail, and I understand the whole sizing the different points for bust, waist, hips... but what about the center front line? If I did that type of sizing, there would be a curved line at the front, which makes it a bit hard to place a busk... should I just pick a straight line in between? or is there some other way to solve this?
thanks!

I have been having a mysterious problem, and wondered if anyone else has experienced this. I am using the same satin and the same eyelets (grommets) I have always used, but for some reason I am now finding that the outer edges of the eyelets on both sides are cutting into the fabric like pastry cutters! It seems that I am over-pressing the eyelets as I'm setting them, but I have not changed my technique. I use pliers initially, and if any of the eyelets are loose I go over them by putting the setting tools in a vice and giving it a *very* gentle turn. Does anyone have any advice for making sure they are properly and securely set using a hand press, but without damaging them? (Other than just get stronger hands?!)

This is the third corset I have made :D

Sewn as a single layer german coutil and denim shell. Steel flat boned. Used my wonderful new grommet press <3


( three large pics and two questions under here )

...and I have a final project due in three weeks for which I am making a corset...

I just got done making seven corsets for a theatrical production, and although I cared for the way I was making things, I feel like I didn't do everything as properly as I should have. now I'm worried that I've forgotten everything I've learned.
Anyone have a step by step instructional on corset building? I just want to read through something to make sure I don't skip any steps. I'm wearing mine to a wedding and I'd also like to have it for more than one wear (which is what I tend to do... spend hours on it then put it in the back of a closet because I want something new :P)
so any blogs? web pages? anything?

oh, and if it makes any difference, I'm making TV110
which, on another note, does anyone know what size busk I should order for that? or should I wait until I do the alterations on it?

thanks!

I received my TV-110 pattern yesterday and I'd like some clarification on how to lengthen it since I've never had to lengthen a pattern at the waist before. It says to lengthen it approximately 1" above the waistline the amount longer than the 9" allotted on the pattern (in my case, 1.5"). I'm a little confused as to exactly what that means, so I made some diagrams to the two ways I could possibly do it.

( Diagrams )

Hello corset makers :-)



We did another wee photoshoot today (I am cream crackered now) and I thought I'd share one of the corsets photographed.

x-posted to corsetry

( Couple more pictures and me wittering on as usual... )

Hi everyone,

This is my first post although I’ve been reading this journal for about a month now and have found it a wonderful wealth of information! I was hoping to get feedback on flatlining dupioni silk. Usually when I flatline I just put the fashion fabric on top of the coutil, sew together and treat as one from then on. However, recently I was reading a book on couture techniques which said that it is a good idea to interline dupioni with silk organza. Has anyone tried this (the layers would be dupioni, organza, coutil)? Given that corsets are so different to other clothing I don’t know if the technique is really relevant. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

I am... not so great at spatial things, and I've been looking through the memories on seams but none of them have really helped my understanding of how to manage this problem. I feel like an idiot :(

( help please? )

I've absolutely fallen in love with this one material for binding...it's thicker than regular satin and has a nice sheen...problem is it doensn't come in the colour I need for my latest costume....red. I believe it's called satin taffeta but I might be mistaken. When I asked in another shop for it I was shown something quite different....silk taffeta?

So m'ladies (and several gents)...what do you all recommend for binding? It has to be something I can buy at Jo-ann's as that's what's closest to me. I typically cut my own binding but if there's a premade product I'll try that too. Making it out of the fabric the corset is made out of is not really an option....dotted sequin stuff...tres thin and if interfaced too thick :(

I wish we had a binding memories.

Hi all,

a bunch of my mates helped me out yesterday with a little photoshoot. My photographer (Emma Hydleman) gave great direction considering this isn't her usual style of working. Our models were great (they all had different looks which I loved) and we even had a hair genius and people with brilliant make-up skills in the group! Best of all though, they all enjoyed wearing their corsets and didn't complain about the long day (they got cakes at the end to say thankyou!).

So, prior to post-production (these images are destined to be part of a portfolio hopefully helping me get onto an MA course in craft or design, or to possibly start selling work), here's a couple of my favourite snaps (with construction details too, of course).

[Please note, we had some antique bits of fur amongst our props and most of my corsets are made from silk whilst the models also wore leather shoes. If any of these things offend you I am very sorry, as I do not wish to cause any upset.]

X-posted to corsetry (with less chit-chat!)

( Lots of yummy pictures and much rambling! )

Hi everyone,

I am sure that this has been mentioned before but I can't for the life of me find the post!

Is using a serger/overlocker to flatline your layers together a good idea? The edges would probably be trimmed away after the pieces were sewn together, I'm guessing, so they wouldn't add bulk. Or is there a problem I'm not forseeing?

Thanks for any help!