11 June 2008 @ 06:39 pm
Dore help?  
So I've been playing with the LM Dore again, trying to fiddle it to something that fits me (never did get that Derby corset done...).

I'm an almost perfect match measurements-wise for a size 14, but I squish well and wanted to try a smaller waist. I took the suggestion given to me from my last attempt (http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/1069054.html) to add some length and added an inch at the line on the pattern. Used the lines for a 14 at the bust and hips, and a 10 at the waist, trying to make the transition nicely. D cup pieces.

Pics & more )

Also, I'm doing a costume piece (actually, several costumes) with a corset as a major piece. I don't think I need such a drastic waist, so I'm thinking of just doing a straight size 14 with the added length. Are the adjustments I figure out with this mockup going to translate if I'm making it with the larger waist, or is the difference in waist/bust ratio going to affect the way the bustline fits? Aw, I should prolly just make another mockup, shouldn't I? I'm running out of time.

Hey, while I've got your attention, I'm using a swimwear fabric as the outside for the costumes, should I a) flatline/serge it to the middle layer (3 layers total) and have the stitching showing on the outside, or b) sew the strength and lining together, sew the channels into them, then sew as if 2 layers (meaning only the stitching on the seams would show)? The costume for those who care to look is a variation on the Claymore uniform (manga - http://www.onemanga.com/Claymore/1/14/ for an example). Really just wondering if anyone has any opinions on the aesthetic - I know it's prolly easier if I flatline.
 
 
13 May 2008 @ 02:45 pm
Summer Corset Coming Along....  
I've been working on a Summer Corset. It's not done yet, but I thought I'd show you all my progress...

Lots of Pictures )

Picture Meaning:
1. I am using L.M. #100
2. I drew out the pattern on butcher paper, and altered it flat to my measurements.
3. I'm using Aida Cloth... not very "meshy" but I'm using this go round as a "workable test" I've found some other needle point cloth that is considerably more "meshy"... so working out the kinks... :D
4. I'm using 1.25 inch twill tape on ironed open seams to reenforce the seams...
5. I'm using flat steels as boning in the front and back, and spirals on the sides.
6. I used a spoon busk, that was too short... I laced it up with some pretty ribbon to make the busk long enough.

Things I will change... either now or later on next time through...
1. I will either change the 2 bones in the center front between busk gores with spirals instead of flats... or alter the busk gore pattern...
2. change how I run the bones down the front... the way that it is going looks like butt, I mean, unattractive.
3. The back is too high... I need to bring down the top edge, it's hitting my shoulder blade, and it's annoying.
4. Oh and I spilled freaking coke on it. meh.
 
 
01 May 2008 @ 02:41 pm
Corset sizing questions  
 Hi. I bought Laughing Moon #100 and am wanting to make the Silverado version of the corset. I'm a little confused with the sizing and hope I can get some help. I'm wanting a 2 inch reduction with the corset lacing up closed in the back (no gap.) I think I understand that with the Laughing Moon pattern if you want it to close together than you don't go down any size. I'm not sure though. 

My measurements are: 38.5" bust, 30" waist and 37" hips. Using the size chart from http://trulyvictorian.com/LM100.html for a B cup I would use pattern size 16 for bust/waist and a 12 or 14 for hips (my measurement falls between the two)? That would give me the 2 inch reduction and no gap?

Another question, though it's not for this corset, if I did want a 2 inch gap in the back using this pattern I would go down a size for each measurement? Like I would use a size 14 for my bust and waist and a size 10 or 12 for hips? Or would I keep my bust and hip size at my actual measurements and just take the waist down a size? 

I'm sorry if these are simple or too beginner questions, but I'm very confused on how to size this pattern.
 
 
27 April 2008 @ 01:09 pm
My very first corset  

Hi everyone here !

I’ve been reading this community for a while now, and I think it’s time for me to show you my first corset.

As I couldn’t afford all the corsets I wanted to get, I decided to try making one. And this is how I started this first one in january, using the LM Dore pattern.

Considering that it was my first corset and my first sewing project ever (never sewed anything else than a button before), I’m quite proud about it turned out…



 
 
Current Mood: cheerful
 
 
22 April 2008 @ 12:51 pm
Two corsets  
Hello all!

I'm a long time lurker here, and I finally decided to show something I've done in the past. I've done two corsets thus far, one for myself and the other for my friend, who saw my corset and wanted me to make one for her too.

 
 
Current Mood: chipper
 
 
10 April 2008 @ 10:27 pm
Laughing Moon Silverado  
After my last corset I decided I wanted to try making a bit more of a fancier one. I used LM #100 Silverado again. I made this one in a similar style to my last one in that it's a closed front, three layers and plastic boning. I'm really quite happy with the way it turned out. I think the shape is a lot better than my previous attempts and I love the fabric, which my sister picked out since I made this for her. I'm still trying to get the hang of fitting a corset correctly, but I think I'm beginning to understand it better.



More pics under cut )

The black lines you see in the pics is hair on the corset. XD Next time I need to remember to wipe down the corset before taking the pics.
 
 
Current Mood: good
 
 
08 April 2008 @ 06:39 pm
weekend corset  
As promised, here're some pictures of the corset I made during JoAnn Peterson and Barbara Muran's Victorian Corset Workshop this weekend.


(click for larger)

more pictures! )

The pattern is Laughing Moon 100, Dore, but with extra hip gores in the lower back to accommodate my ghetto booty.

I brought the fashion fabric along, just in case it was needed, but the class really did provide for everything. Regardless, I flatlined the brocade to the coutil and used that as one layer, and the lining as the under layer. All bones and grommets and the busk (even the gold one I used here!) were provided with the cost of the class (only $100!).

The really interesting thing about the fitting technique is that Barb and JoAnn had each size available, already mocked up, then wrapped each participant in various sizes to see what would be the best fit. Then we adjusted from there. As my torso length is standard, we didn't need to adjust the pattern in that way for me, but others did.

I cut my fashion fabric as a size 20, but put in a hip gore between the center-back and side-back panels. When we fit the assembled (unlined) corset on me, we decided to take in the top by 1/8" between the center back/side-back panels and side-back/side panels. (total 1 inch reduction on the top). The hips were too big still, so I added an extra hip gore between the side-back and side panels. With those pieces added, the back laces evenly.

After that, I assembled the lining, attached it to the rest of the corset, stitched the boning panels (no boning channel tape or sandwich methods or any of the crazy channeling contortions I normally do), slapped on the bias, inserted the spring steel bones (no spiral), put on the top bias, laced it with the ribbon in front to create a curve over the bust area, and voila!! Finished from start to finish in about 12 hours! Easiest corset I ever made!

While I was there, Barbara had some gorgeous coutil she had embroidered for the front panels. I couldn't resist the purple on black and snatched it up:
black coutil with purple embroidery and bias )

(there's a picture of a finished corset with this detail here)

I'm looking forward to making up the black and purple one for everyday wear. Purple flossing!! MMMMM....
 
 
03 April 2008 @ 03:27 pm
Boning front panels  
I have a question. When boning a front panel, would you recommend using one piece of boning down the center, multiple pieces down the center, or something entirely different? I'm working on a corset and haven't the funds with which to buy a busk at the moment. So I decided to make the front panel solid instead. I'm just not sure how to bone it properly, and would appreciate some input.

Pictures of the final hopefully soon!

Edit: Now with tags for your viewing pleasure!

Also, I am using the Laughing Moon bust gore pattern which I can't currently remember the number of--if that helps at all.
 
 
07 February 2008 @ 10:51 pm
A first corset  
I've been watching this community for about the last 5 or 6 months, and I even picked up some cloth a few months back, but actually making the corset was at the bottom of a long list of sewing projects. So, when I saw the Victorian Corset Workshop at Lacis, I figured I may as well bump the project to the top of the queue and get it out of the way. So this is my first corset attempt.



Four layers: fashion (cotton, thick but with an oddly stretchy diagonal weave), 2 layers of coutil, and one layer of lining (scrap cotton quilting I think). Piping and binding in purple (with black crackle) cotton quilting fabric. Spiral steel boning all around, and flat steels on both sides of the grommets.

Workshop and construction notes, with more images )
 
 
24 January 2008 @ 08:15 am
Newbie Advice  
Hi all,

I have been watching this community for quite a while now and I think the corsets you all make a beautiful. I have a few questions and couldn't find the answers to them while flicking through other peoples' posts easily, so I thought I would just ask.

I was considering making my first corset and after advice on which pattern to buy. I am naturally curvy (there is about 11 inches between my hips and waist - so current measurements are about 42-36-47) and am tossing up between ordering the LM Dore pattern (LM100) or the TV`110.

So my questions are:

Has anyone made both? What are the pros and cons of each?
How easy are they to adapt between sizes (as my waist is a completely different size to my hips)?
Or would anyone recommend a different pattern?

When making mock ups, do cable ties give enough indication of how the steels will behave? With the steels,  I can either order pre-cut ones, or buy in length and cut and tip my own. So if I am buying pre-cut I think I need to make a complete mock-up beforehand. What would people recommend - precut or cut to length as required?

As I am living in the middle of nowhere and have little access to shops other than online, does anyone have a recommended online source of coutil in Australia? The only place I have found so far has been Australian Corset Supplies - has anyone used them before? I probably would like to make a mock up with a cheaper, sturdy fabric, but for a final version, I would like to order some from somewhere.

Thank you all in advance.
 
 
 
Current Mood: contemplative
 
 
21 January 2008 @ 10:34 pm
Piccies, finally!  
Phew, this took a long time but FINALLY I managed to get some decent pictures... I fell in love with the black corset with pink details made by talented [info]sphynxcorsets presented in this age-old post. Luckily I had some money to spare and managed to catch it before anyone else.



So let's cut the babbling and move on to the pictures... )
 
 
21 January 2008 @ 02:03 am
Favorite patterns  
What is your favorite commercially printed corset pattern and why?

I did a mock up of Simplicity #7215 today and hated the way it fit. I don't like the way the gores/gussets fit and it would take me about three generations of mock-ups to get an ok fit out of it. So I went back to my favorite pattern once more.

I love Laughing Moon #100 especially the Silverado, because it fits me well and is so easy for me to modify into so many other corset styles. I have made about 8 going on 9 variations of the same pattern. I've made it at bust, under bust, over bust, and now a sweet heart neckline. I'd like to branch out and use some other patterns as I can't free form pattern draft, but I can re-draft one pattern into a completly different pattern. I am working on a lot of projects where I have to do a lot of modifications at the moment for my best friends wedding, so I'd rather not do that with a corset at the same time. I just feel like being lazy and using an off the rack pattern and I'd like to try something new.
 
 
19 January 2008 @ 12:03 am
My latest creation  
Hi Everyone,
I finally finished the remake of my Laughing Moon Silverado corset. I'd made one about 2 years ago, but after only 3 wearings (not including fittings) the bones started poking through the outer fabric because it wasn't sturdy enough. This one is made with coutil from tutu.com and lined with canvas.

 
 
08 November 2007 @ 10:11 am
Corset Cover?  
I am experimenting making a corset cover. Basically I found this really beautiful fabric yesterday for $1/yard and I decided I need to make a skirt and matching corset for Sunday (because I am a freek). The fabric is one way nice strong stretch, so my machine can actually sew it. I have the pattern from when I made the corset, like a week and a half ago. I don't have time to make a full corset or even a single layer corset because of the the time to get the boning and time to fuse and baste it to a stable fabric. So I am thinking that I could make it like a single layer corset with the stretch going around the waist and wear it over my corset. Anyone see any problems I should watch out for? I was thinking of using a busk or a zipper to close it up too. The pattern I am using is based on the LM #100 Silverado. I am thinking I may need to have a few hidden loops on the corset cover get laced into the corset underneath to help with centering and just a little support in front. Any suggestions?
 
 
17 October 2007 @ 01:26 am
LM #100 Silverado.  
Has anyone had any luck on raising the top of this pattern to create fuller coverage? My instinct is to add 1/4-1/2" in length at the top and take in slightly more material in the seams at the very top of the corset to create more of a cup. I'm just not really sure how the bust gores will react? I'd imagine the key is to make the top seam decrease extremely gradual. Anyone try this?
 
 
17 August 2007 @ 04:53 pm
Question on embellishing  
Okay so I haven't actually gotten around to makign a corset... I have the Laughing moon pattern just sitting on my desk but it hasn't made demands to be made yet so the quilts keep winning. I made an 18th century set of stays last year but after issues with binding it it now hides deep in the back of the closet. 

Anywho that said, if, and tha't a big IF i ever get around to making a mock up of the laughing moon corset and actually make a corset and were to do silk ribbon embroidery on it would i put do the actual embroidery? when it's still in peices or when it's already constructed? It sounds like a very stupid question but since i'm not sure of the answer so it would be be stupid for not asking. 

and i guess on more quick question. After a quick glance at what's already been said there seems to be many happy reviews of the TV110 corset. between the laughing moon and that one which is easier to work with or has better instuctions or make the comfiest one... not like corsets are comfy but well i think you know what i mean lol. 

Thank you kindly for your advice :)
 
 
10 August 2007 @ 04:01 pm
Need advice on LM100  
A while back, I made the dore from LM100. However, my silly self didn't do something right in the muslin to final conversion and the bust is a tiny bit too small. By tiny bit, I mean so tight that I'm afraid to wear it out in public if I have it laced to the right measurement at the waist. And if I don't lace it to the proper waist measurement, it's really uncomfortable, as it tends to slide around.

So here's where I need the community's advice. I know it would be a lot of work, but is there a feasable way that I could turn this corset into an underbust? I've got an extremely small ribcage and I made the corset to fit very closely to it until just at the bottom of my breasts, as per normal. I don't want to destroy the corset in an attempt to do something that could be impossible, but I love it too much to not be able to wear it.

I'd post pictures of the corset, but they'd be almost x-rated, and I'm not so sure that'd be acceptable. Please help. I appreciate it so much!!
 
 
Current Mood: hopeful
 
 
04 June 2007 @ 11:56 am
Getting ready to tackle my 3rd project, need pattern recs  
So, I'm getting ready to tackle a pretty specific costuming project that includes a corset, and I need some recs for a pattern that fits the style i'm looking for best. 

My experience this far is w/LM Dore pattern, which I love. 

The pic of what I want to recreate is behind the cut.  It's a design by a UK wedding dress designer, and I should maybe mention I'm not trying to reproduce it for anything commercial, just for me, and it's not going to be exact.  I like the overall "look".

Pic )

Any recs/ideas?  I think I've got the sleeves covered, and I can find...something in a skirt pattern, I think.  But the corset I'm not sure - I think I've only seen similar designs when people have drafted their own?  which is a little beyond anything I've tried.  I also like the way she seems to have edged it - how is it that she didn't use twill tape or some other casing to enclose her edges?

ETA: I think I'm going to alter Simplicity 5006 for this.  Either that, or make another Dore, and alter the top to a more sweetheart shape.  I'm going to have to be able to sit down while wearing this, which is a consideration in length.  I'm short waisted to begin with, LOL.  This weekend i'll take out the muslin and both patterns and play.

On the skirt, (sorry this is OT, but it deals w/the total outfit that goes w/the corset) has anyone here made any of the Victorian skirt patterns before?  Either LM or TV ~ I don't want something I have to wear over a bustle.  I think I'd like a short train.  I'm thinking about either a "basic five gore skirt" a "bell skirt" or one of the fan train skirts, but what I'm looking to do is make the skirt itself out of dupioni silk, and the train section of of some light gauzy material that'll float behind me as I walk (and hopefully not be as likely to be stepped on!)  FYI, this is supposed to be fairy-like.  I'm not going for historical accuracy. ;)  My question is, on the Victorian skirts w/trains, can I use a see through material for the train, or is the train the backing of the skirt, and thus I'd need to use the dupioni?
 
 
25 February 2007 @ 09:53 pm
Laughing Moon Ladies Underwear Pattern  
Hello everyone,

I hope this has not been asked before (and prove me obtusely blind), but amongst all the discussion here about corset patterns I never really saw much talk about price (something that sits rather close to my heart, or wallet, as a penniless student).

For a while, I've been passively wanting to make a corset, and when trawling eBay as I often do in my spare time, I saw the LM #100 Ladies Underwear pattern listed for AU$26 (including postage). Do you think that this is a fair price to pay for it, or would I be able to get it for a little less from somewhere else?


Thanks!
Mischa.
 
 
Current Mood: hopeful
 
 
11 May 2006 @ 10:40 pm
 
Finally have another corset to show you: my second.


Read more... )