My new stays!

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I'm going to have a 1790s corset made for me (the late 1790s version on page 44 of Corsets and Crinolines), and I'm trying to decide on the boning material to use - has anyone used plastic whalebone (available here)? Is it functionally equivalent to zip ties? How did you like it?  I'm hesitant to use steel as I'm not convinced it will curve as the corset requires (and spiral steels weren't invented yet...) plus flat steels are heavy. Reeds are very comfortable, but in my experience they don't provide enough resistance - my 1770s corset has a ring of cracked reeds around my waist 'cause I forgot and bent from the waist, and the corset broke rather then disallowing the motion :-S 

What does the collective wisdom of this group suggest? Thanks!!

I have finished my 1780's stays from Corsets and Crinolines.. Here are some pictures under the( cut )
As I said this pattern is from Corsets and Crinolines, the 1780's stays. I used the 5/8" zip ties for the majority of the boning, except for the center front, being 1/2 (hoop steel) flats. I hand bound my eyelets. I did the binding by hand using back stitch. The stays consist of three layers, the fashion is a printed felted cotton duck, heat n bonded to a layer of cotton duck, strength is cotton twill, lining of novelty quilt cotton.

I hand applied the lining... I had no reference to determine exactly how to apply the lining. I found only one historical costumer that had pictures of lining, but they were too small to see the stitches. I could tell that the lining was through the tabs though, but eliminated the straps... I found one picture of extant stays of this period that shows the lining... but the tabs weren't lined. I chose to line the tabs and not the straps, because I wanted to cover the boning. Regardless I had no idea exactly HOW to apply it so I just cut out the lining as the stays were turned under the binding amount and whip-stitched it down, I used back stitch to sew the pieces together.

I do see problems with it though...

The main (and really only thing) the stays are wrinkling on the side front. I believe this is because of the diagonal boning, and because (stupid me) cut that piece not on grain. mer.

Otherwise... I'm happy with my first attempt at this type of corset.

This is an update post about my 1780's Stays. I posted earlier I guess last week with pictures of my mock up, and was asking advice on how to get the fit better. I followed the advice you all gave me to the best of my ability and **sigh** of course they aren't perfect, but the fit is much better than the mock up anyway. In my last post most specifically I was told to add to the top edge of the stays. I added 1 1/2 inches which in retrospect was a bit overboard...

Here are some( pictures of my stays. )

I've been walking around my house in them to get a feel for how I like them and how they fit me. I did some laundry, some dishes, walked a bit, sat a bit, and this is my conclusion;

1. The straps are too long, causing a gap in the back. By gap I mean the stays stand off from my back, but when I pull in the strap the back sits flat.

2. I believe the waist tabs to not be sitting at or above my waist. The side and back tabs are digging in and are uncomfortable.

3. I believe that I was over zealous in adding to the top of the corset (as prompted to do in an earlier post) I have pulled out the top bone and folded down the excess 1/2 of fabric and like the top edge much better.

So all in all the fixes are small in my estimation. What do you all think of the fit? Do you think I need to do anything more?

I want to get all of my alterations done before I do anymore actual construction.

I have just a bit left to do... the binding of course, and hand bound eyelets and I want to put yellow ribbon on all the seams and the finished corset then gets lined. Evidentially the lining goes in last. This was to allow the owner to put in a new lining if the old one went icky.

Thank you for all your help.

Here are some pictures of my 1780's stays and some rambling ramble.

This has been x-posted from my personal LJ... so it might read a bit odd in context of setting. :D

( The worst Photoshopping job in the history of Photoshop )

What do you all think of the fit?
Do you have any suggestions on a different method of keeping the horizontal bones from twisting?
Do you have any suggestions as for the use / lack there of, of large, cone like triangular busk? (yes I am being flippant... said busks simply scare me) But is it WRONG if I don't have one?

(odd fact that hit me as I was making up this mock up) Several of the bones that run through the waist tabs are very close to the edge of the corset... I'm going to have to add some fabric there on the pattern so that the stays can be bound. Weird.

I have been good... and looked through the memories, and tags for this information. Sadly, although I know I have seen the answer to my question before, (when I didn't need it) I can't find it now.

I'm wanting to make a set of stays, boned in zip ties. I will be using the half-boned stays pattern from Corsets and Crinolines, page 42, from 1780. I'm ready now to make my mock up and get to fitting. I want to (obviously) blow up the pattern and redraft the pattern from my measurements to make the fitting process less arduous, and frustrating. To that end I want to factor in the amount of fabric that the thickness of the zip ties will inhabit. How much room does each individual tie use?

To make this a bit more confusing to myself, I'm curious if whether, because this pattern calls for horizontal bones across the bust, if I need to add to the length of the front pattern piece as well.

Also, (this question might not be appropriate for this community, as it's more of a historically accuracy question more than anything) would a corset with horizontal boning require a triangular busk? I was of the assumption that later on the the 1700's as the rounded front became more pronounced, horizontal bones became more popular. Did the horizontal bones eliminated the need for a busk?

To be honest... I would rather not have to enlist my husbands carpentry skills... because lord knows when the project would ever be completed! :D

Thank you for all your help. I've really enjoyed being a part of this community, and learning so much from all you talented corset makers!

I hope that this is allowed. If not, please let me know and I will delete this post. I checked the info page, and didn't see anything prohibiting concept art, so I ran with it. Thank you!

Next costume in the works: Victorian (early bustle era) ballgown

I just finished designing the underpinnings:

( Read more )


Yup...I still suck at drawing fabric. Oh well. This will all be done in a midnight blue. The bustle will be something resembling bridal satin, but very heavy weight and stiff, and the corset is a jacquard scroll in a similar color.

I plan on starting with Corsets and Crinolines page 97 for the bustle, and Truly Victorian 110 for the corset and modifying the patterns to better suit me from there. This is my first corsetry project, and I'm excited to start.

I've got the fabric on hand and will be beginning the bustle in class tomorrow. <3 Advanced theatre craft is awesome! It is always a toss up as to what the subject will be each semester, and this time around, it happens to be corsetry. I jumped at the chance to have an instructor walk me through the drafting, fitting, and constructing process for the first time.

So much to do...at least my concept homework is out of the way now. If you are all interested, I'll be sure to post when I finish my projects at the end of the semester. My gosh....I don't do straight sewing projects nearly often enough.

Thanks for reading!

~Shadow

Just finished my first underbust, sad to say that the hips are a little too big. It took me forever to get the right fit, I think I went through three mock-ups. Drafted from Corsets and Crinolines 1880s pg. 81. The other one is my first 18th century stays, from Butterick 4254.

( Read more... )

I have finally completed the corset for the Oblivion gown. I think it worked out well. You might remember that is based on the corset pattern found on page 81 of Corsets and Crinolines.

I blew the pieces up to full size (according to the provided scale), then slashed each down the middle and spread them 3/4 in.

The finished measurements of this corset are:
Bust - 39 in.
Waist - 29 in.
Hip - 38 in.

(Which means the original corset pattern would have made up as 31.5 / 21.5 /30.5, or thereabouts.)

Front length is `14.5 in. with 8 in. above the waist.

It's two layers of unbleached coutil with mostly 1/4 in. spiral bones. The bones backing up the lacing holes are 1/2 in. spring steel, of course. The busk is a 14 in. spoon busk. I really think I am going to like those.

The shape seems about right, and the bust seems to support me correctly. It's a little long for sitting in, but not impossible. There are wrinkles, though, so I have done something wrong. Alas.



( Coutil is pretty boring to look at, but... )

I am planning on buying either Waisted Efforts or Corsets and Crinolines. I want to buy one now and ask for the other one for Christmas. My question is which one should I buy now? What is the better deal for my money? From what I have read, it seems as though I should go with Corsets and Crinolines now, and ask for Waisted Efforts as a gift, but I just want to make sure that this is right.
Am I correct in thinking that Corsets and Crinolines has more patterns in it than Waisted Efforts? It seems like a lot of people here post pictures of corsets that they have made from patterns in Corsets and Crinolines here a lot, so it seems like this might be a better book to buy first.
Thanks!

Yay! for completion.

I had to enlist the help of my sons to take these pictures... sooo...

I mean they could have said, "Hey mom! Your bows all wonky." But what are you gonna do? I'm just glad it's in focus.

Acknowledgment as follows:
ainos2 for the long shank grommets... Thanks!
auroracelestefor the inspirational images she has posted in her journal for Steampunk costuming... Thanks!


( Steampunk Pictures )

There are several things that I would change about this corset... maybe next time...

1. Use a better busk.... *razzin frazzin*
2. Nip in the waist... although the "point" of making the waist more "natural" was to make the corset comfortable because it is to be worn dancing... yah. whatever. It looks big.
3. Make a better modesty panel. This version sucks. I used the design that acts like the loops in a tennis shoe tongue. The ribbon that I used as the loops tends to fray, and overall the design is more trouble than it's worth.
4. Add to the seam allowances to make up for the bones. DUH!
5. Lower the top edge under my armpits. I think its high.

I used the 1880's pattern on page 81 of corsets and crinolines. The pattern calls for a spoon busk... I've ordered SEVERAL from a group order, but I used what I had (the crappiest bust ever... It is very difficult to close)I think if I would have used the correct busk the front would sit closer to my lower abdomen.

I know this has nothing to do with corsetry... but I made the bustle on the skirt removable... I love options.

So what do you all think? I'm in NO way an experienced corset-maker. I'm learning as I go, and it's very helpful to hear this talented groups opinions! I have learned an incredible amount since joining this community. Thanks so much!

I've been working on a set of 18th century style foundation garments to build my Fall and winter wardrobe over, and this week and long last have them all ready for dress making to start!




The stays and pocket hoops are modded  from patterns in Corsets and Crinolines.

For the stays I went for an extra 2 inches waist reduction to the actual pattern, and I lengthened the tabs and added gores to keep my tummy under control at the bottom. It's boned with spring steel and not as uncomfortable as I dreaded.  ( wear it with a cotton corset liner rather than a shift though)

The pocket hoops I changed so that they could be packed flat when traveling. I just took out the bottom, and put in a set of stays like in the 1880's bustle patterns I've worked with in the past.

The Bum roll I made from the pattern on the Farthingales website, modded to be more back heavy (thanks so much to rvqavalon for all her help on the bum roll)  I added some pinked  edge ruffles to make it a little prettier.

The set isn't historically accurate, but  I wanted to get a sort of period shape for some every day clothes I'm designing. I also wanted to  them to look cute on their own.

I was seduced by a dress found in The Elder Scrolls 4: Oblivion (Shivering Isles expansion). I posted about it before, but hadn't done much.

Well, I got to looking at it recently and noticed something

( Lots of pictures )

I've been wanting to make a set of 18th Century stays for quite some time now, but worried about expense and time I wanted to wait till I had shed a few extra pounds before I began. Last weekend I decided to forget about that, and give it a shot! (after all the first set of any kind of stays/corsets always come out a little wonky) I'm working on this corset for Corsets and Crinolines

I almsot brought it to compleation over the weekend, only to decide that the waist was a few inches larger than I would like. The stays are quite short because they are from the 1780's which works well because they come in at the "squshiest" part of the waist and allow for a greater reduction than a longer set could maybe give. The down side (and where I need help his here....

Need Advice on this part

Because they are on the natural waist, and because I have something of a belly, I find when I lace in I get a nasty looking "pooch" underneath the bottom of the stays. I'm looking for a solution to this problem. If I increase the over all length it moves bellow the natural waist and becomes uncomfortable, but extending the front alone doesn't quite cut it. I was thinking about adding gores like these 17th century stays
V&A Stays
Manchester Stays

Has any body else tried something like this and how do other here deal with "pooch control" on 18th Century stays?

So I wanted to make a "Civil War Era" corset but.... I got sidetracked. :) Here's a mockup of the 1880's Corsets and Crinolines from page 81. It also gets some cording, so that should be fun, and pretty. I'm pleased with this mockup, as this is the first time I have used a pattern that I had to blow up properly, redraft the pattern so that it fit my measurements and actually put "bones" in my mock up. I think I'm getting better at making mockups, but I still had to redraft the waist section as it was too small. CURSE MY SPONGE BOB SQUARE PANTS BODY! arrg! seriously was is up with 36" 30" 38" geez I might as well be a tree. There is no curve there at all.

My question to you all is this, when constructing a corset for waist reduction, is there some kind of formula to give curve and yet still be comfortable? Breathing is good, I like air.

( Pictures )

I'm going to be tackling my second 18th C corset, actually the same one that waterhousesmuse is using if all goes well and I shut my costume nazi brain up.  It's for an early 1700's riding habit but so far all I've found for that period are fully boned.  I've made a fully boned one before and hope to try something a bit lighter this time.  The boning placement really interests me in this later 1700's one.  I do hope to use it as club wear later on....... so it will be used more than a few times.... and I do hope it will also reduce my waist by 2" if possible

My questions are:

1. Are there any special techniques one should use with this style.  I'm much more versed in Victorian and Edwardian.... do the same techniques apply?  I've heard of complications with the horizontal placement bones twisting... how does one sew those in without causing issues with the channels below it?  I keep seeing channels sewn shut due to the horizontal ones... I hope this makes sense...
   
2. How in the world does one bind the tabbed edges nicely??  My last attempt was a horrible mess.  It was all hand sewn but I couldn't get the curves and corners to lay nice and flat. =/
3. Is there anywhere to buy the plastic whale bone by the roll instead of by the cut piece?  All I can seem to find is by the cut piece.  I'm in Southern New England if that helps.  Are there any other suggestions you would make for boning such a corset?  I'm tempted to combine plastic whale bone with with steal personally.
   
4. Last, I've gained a decent amount of weight since my last corset and am now much more ample in the breast area.  Are there any special considerations I should take to keep the girls in the right place?  In years past, they won't stay put. =/  I'm considering installing a very small shelf if past patterns repeat.  I'm a bit differently built in that area if it helps.  Its been credited to my German heritage. =/

For fellow costume nazi's (extra credit):

1. Do you think a corset that's from the 1770's instead of the early 1700's would greatly effect the overall look of a garment?
2. If it will effect the overall look poorly, is there a simple way to reduce the boning on a fully boned corset from the proper era?

I wish this period wasn't so hard to find good valid information on. =/  I'm having issues finding information on the foundation garments.  I'm finding nothing but confusion information.

I greatly appreciate any help given!!!!  I'm not very versed in anything beyond Victorian or beyond under the bust.....

I'm making this style from the 1770's from Corsets and Crinolines. I adjusted the pattern to what I think should be my measurements, all that remains is to select the boning and decide on a construction type so I can make a mock-up. It will reduce my waist by approx 2 inches.

So, I ask....
1. What kind of boning should I buy? From where? I'm a bit apprehensive about using plastic boning, so I'd prefer steel suggestions, but I'm interested in plastic options too. Please be specific as possible in your suggestions, ie, plastic coated hoop steel, 1/4", rather than "hoop steel".
2. What construction method do you recommend? Links detailing method are welcome. I learned a variation on this method but I doubt it will be suitable for this style of corset.
3. Based on the construction method you recommend, how much fabric will I "loose" when I put in the boning?

Thanks so much in advance!

(x-posted to panniers)

A couple days ago, I made a post wondering if anyone had ideas on a good pattern source for a corset like this. I got a couple ideas, and it will vaguely turn out similar to the reference. I'm going with the pattern on page 84 of Corsets & Crinolines. It needs to be modified in length, but I really like the lines of this corset.
( images + progress so far )

I really want to try making it but HOW? I can't say it's a pattern, I don't know where is waist line, I am afraid that if I will not find out where is waist line I will not be able to place it correctly on the fabric. Did anyone tried making a corset from that book? Please help!

Has anyone else tried making up the 1901 pattern from Corsets & Crinolines (p84)?

I finally managed to blow it up and make a mock-up today; I was impressed with the size, I thought it was going to be for tiny Edwardian waifs but it fitted my slightly "cuddlier" figure very well, although the hips seem to be a bit on the enormous side!

The things I'm wondering about it are:

1) What direction should the grain go on the various pieces? Do we assume that the blown-apart pieces are laid out as they would be on the fabric? I'm sure something that complex would need to be cut on specific grain directions to hold the shape, but there's no indication given with the pattern. Any thoughts, more experienced folk?

2) How in the name of all that's shiny would one go about making it a different size? That thing's like a jigsaw! If anyone has any theories, I'd be interested in playing about with it a bit more, although I'm starting to think I might just take the easy route and move on to the 1880s pattern, lol!

Love to hear other people's thoughts on this pattern.