corsetmakers: Bust gussets... how do you draft them?

avid_stumbler (

avid_stumbler) wrote in

corsetmakers,
@ 2006-03-25 20:34:00

Current mood:	curious
Entry tags:	patterns, technique

Bust gussets... how do you draft them?
I have a customer that wants a midbust corset. She has a nice natural hourglass figure, but what is giving me issues is the fact that she is an E to an F cup. The way that I usually draft my patterns doesn't really allow for that much of a change between the bust/underbust/waist measurements. there is a full six inch difference between her bust and underbust measurements and 9 inches difference between bust and waist, and that is before waist reduction is factored in.

So, I believe gussets would work best for her, but I am completely confused on how to draft them. I want the gussets to attach at a seam because the corset will be made out of PVC and I will not be able to use flossing.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Drawings and diagrams would be great too... I know I am asking a lot, but hey... never know if you don't ask, right?

Thank you all in advance,

Hahns

(Post a new comment)

	cherryheavy 2006-03-26 05:57 am UTC (link)
	Personally, I have found that with super large differences in ribcage/bust, that gussets leave the garment with too little shape in the top. Have you considered a very rounded cup finish? (Reply to this)(Thread)

	avid_stumbler 2006-03-26 06:32 am UTC (link)
	Hmmmm... thanks for the input. I always thought gussets gave more definition in the cup... maybe in how they are drafted?? I will just have to experiment with it, and see. Hahns (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	dragonwort 2006-03-27 07:48 pm UTC (link)
	make them more petal shape than trangle shape. that will help for one. But just making the cup portion very rounded can at times look better than gussets because the gusset draws alot of attention to the bust. (Reply to this)(Parent)

	avid_stumbler 2006-03-26 06:35 am UTC (link)
	Was just looking at your user info and noticed that you are in Portland. I didn't realize you were that close. I live just outside of Salem. Many of my customers are out of Portland. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	cherryheavy 2006-03-27 01:27 am UTC (link)
	Nice. Do you go through any of the boutiques in the area? There are a few really swell ones, and all of them looking to sell custom corsets through consignment. I'm not comfortable enough with my method and time-frame to sell corsets like that, yet. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	avid_stumbler 2006-03-27 01:39 am UTC (link)
	No, I haven't been to any boutiques there in Portland. I would be interested in that though... are there an you would recommend checking out?? Hahns (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

cherryheavy
2006-03-27 05:15 am UTC (link)

One that was really cool was a place called 'Ooh, La La' that shares a building with La Muse (my favorite hair salon) in an old Victorian down on 12th and Broadway. They sell Vollers, but really wanted something more personal and custom.

Uhhm.. There are actually a few shops on Hawthorn, too. I don't remember any names, but every time I mention that I make corsets, owners always ask me if I'll do consignment for their shops. I'd suggest having a walk around and just striking up some convo- you're bound to find interesting parties.

(Reply to this)(Parent)

	laracorsets 2006-03-26 05:47 pm UTC (link)
	It all depends on how you shape the gussets. Strait cut triangles like many people do just flatten and push up. If you round them with a natural curve they can be beautifully rounded, very flattering and supportive. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

avid_stumbler
2006-03-26 05:56 pm UTC (link)

You definitely have a point. Many of the patterns I have seen (simplicity 7512, et al) have straight seam gussets. The ones I am talking about though are older styles where there is a very definite curve to the gussets.

My issue is where do you start with drafting them? do you draft the underbust measurement up over the bust and then add the difference with gussets, or is there more to it?

I have tried a couple of different ways and they don't appear to be working, myabe I am just being too picky (I haven't made a mockup yet).

Hahns

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

laracorsets
2006-03-26 06:56 pm UTC (link)

Exactly what I do. I take the underbust measurement and subtract it from the full bust measure. I then draft two gores, each the width at it's widest point is 1/4 of the difference. (Geez, did I explain that well enough?)
I make sure to draw the curve how I want the bust to look in profile. So many of my bust gores for larger busts flare out fuller more quickly from the base point than others I've seen.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	avid_stumbler 2006-03-26 07:00 pm UTC (link)
	Thank you very much. Yes, you did explain it clearly, at least clearly enough for me. It is true as well that the length of the gussets has more of an effect on shaping too than the width, correct?? Thank you again, Hahns (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

laracorsets
2006-03-26 07:07 pm UTC (link)

The length is pre determined by where you want the gusset start as it will always end at the top edge. The shaping is all in the curve of the gore's sides. I usually start a bust gore at the underbust or within 1" below it. For a larger bust it is best to start within 1" of the underbust and quickly curve out to the fullness so the bust has someplace to go. Without the extreme curve she will spill out.

(Reply to this)(Parent)

laracorsets
2006-03-26 07:02 pm UTC (link)

It is so hard for me to explain this well. If you have ever made the cover of a parasol or umbrella it is the same principle. The shape of the gores determines the shape of the dome to the umbrella.
So full bust measure minus underbust measure divide by four and you have the width of each of the four gores. Length of underbust to top edge of corset determines length of gore. From there it is up to you to decide the shape of the curve and how you want the bust to sit in the corset.

(Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	avid_stumbler 2006-03-26 07:05 pm UTC (link)
	Thank you again. Now I have enough info to try again, and should be more successful. I guess the rest is just up to me to try and see what I come up with, right?? Hahns (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	laracorsets 2006-03-26 07:08 pm UTC (link)
	That is why we do the mock-ups. I often have to fine tune the bust gores a bit so the bust sits just right. (Reply to this)(Parent)

	laracorsets 2006-03-26 07:12 pm UTC (link)
	Buy the way, you can do it without the gussets. I have made corsets for DD's through F's on which you sculpt the bust seams as if there are gores built into them: http://www.laracorsets.com/images/things.I.built/2005.07.Shanon.corset.a.jpg http://www.laracorsets.com/images/things.I.built/2004-5.Anna-Nicole.combo.jpg (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	avid_stumbler 2006-03-26 07:18 pm UTC (link)
	Thank you... Off to the drawing board... wish me luck Hahns (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	laracorsets 2006-03-26 07:42 pm UTC (link)
	lots of luck! (Reply to this)(Parent)

	djonma 2007-03-30 06:41 pm UTC (link)
	I know this is ages after you posted this, but these links don't go to the actual pictures anymore, just directly to your site. Is there anychance you could update this post with new links? (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	avid_stumbler 2007-03-30 07:00 pm UTC (link)
	Here are the links: http://www.laracorsets.com/images/Corsets_by_LaraCorsets/2004.Anna-Nicole.combo.jpg http://www.laracorsets.com/images/Corsets_by_LaraCorsets/2005_Shanon_corset_a.jpg (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	djonma 2007-03-30 07:04 pm UTC (link)
	Ok they look fabulous! I totally can't work out how it's done though. Sorry, I'm totally new to all of this and I really want to make myself a corset, but unfortunately my bust is huge and I really want to minimize it but I can't find patterns that go up to my cup size. (Reply to this)(Parent)

	laracorsets 2007-03-30 07:31 pm UTC (link)
	Sure: http://www.laracorsets.com/images/Corsets_by_LaraCorsets/2005_Shanon_corset_a.jpg http://www.laracorsets.com/images/Corsets_by_LaraCorsets/2004.Anna-Nicole.combo.jpg (Reply to this)(Parent)

	lc_corsetry 2006-03-26 07:22 pm UTC (link)
	hi hahns - i have never used gussets in my corsets - i just shape the bust seams to be curvier. lara's pictures are a great example - you get a fantastic shape without the 'abruptness' of a gusset. (Reply to this)(Parent)

vesperi
2006-03-27 03:00 am UTC (link)

i once had a book on fabric manipulation. it was basically a book opn a zillion ways to take a flat piece of fabric (or anything) and create curvature and shape. it was a great way to limber up my mind on simple dart manipulation. you could also think of it in terms of point of purchase display design.. taking flat media and creating structure. thats what you do when you draft anyway, you are simplifying additive sculpture, you are making something from nothing. oooh i love drafting.

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	ninth_myth 2006-03-26 02:07 pm UTC (link)
	i'm a c cup but my measurment differences are almost the same. i've never had a corset with gussets and unless you were looking for a cup effect, i've never had issues with shaping. (Reply to this)

mrpet
2006-03-26 04:14 pm UTC (link)

I have drafted gussets for as large of a cup as a J cup. It's a little hard to explain but you can see that PVC corset here.. I ended up splitting the gusset down the middle to make two to give more shaping to the cup.

I sew the gusset to the first panel and the resulting assembly is sewn to the next panel. The two seam allowances (1st assembly, second pannel) match up as close as I can get them. This second seam needs to be just outside of the bust and the bone there will give side support.

(Reply to this)

This is how I do it.

electradesigns
2006-03-26 09:29 pm UTC (link)

Drawing by Electra Designs. All rights reserved.
This is the method I made up. There are probably better ways to do it, but this is how i make bust gussets.
The orange lines are grain lines.
The red lines show what changes I make at each step.
Make sure you are working with no seam allowances. Add those at the end.
First draft an overbust pattern with shaped princess seamed cups. Come as close to the finished bust size as possible, but you will add more width in each gusset later, so it doesn't have to be perfect. The underbust has to be correct though,
Draw lines where you will cut off the bust curves. Cut them off. This is where your gusset will go later. You will use the bust curves to create the gussets.
Flip the bust shapes so they look like the heart in the middle. In other words, turn the pieces over, and connect them on along, placing the points together. Notice they are connected in reverse, so the princess seams do not meet. They are now on the outside.
Connect the bust shapes with a smooth arc across the top. Move the grain line to the center of the piece.
Place the gusset where it used to be, matching the point at the underbust line, and use your awl to walk the seam lines. Depending on the shape of the bust, you may wish to change the shape of the panels, or the gusset. Draw in notches, and make sure the seam lines match.
Add seam allowances, make a mockup and test the fit. make adjustments. To make the gusset bigger, slash along the grain line leaving a tiny hinge at the point on the bottom. Spread it open to create extra room for the boobie. tape it onto another piece of paper, and smooth the top line. To make the gusset smaller, slash it, and instead of spreading it, overlap the cut edges at along the grain line. tape together. tape to a new piece of paper. Smooth the top edge.
You can add contour and volume to the shape of the gusset by rounding the seams. Just be sure to walt the seams so they match the seams on the corset panels.
I hope this helps.

(Reply to this)(Thread)

	Re: This is how I do it. electradesigns 2006-03-26 09:34 pm UTC (link)
	In other words, turn the pieces over, and connect them on along, placing the points together. Typo correction: Connect them along the seams, placing points together. (Reply to this)(Parent)

	Re: This is how I do it. avid_stumbler 2006-03-26 09:48 pm UTC (link)
	Very cool. Thank you very much. I love the drawing, it is very helpful. Hahns (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: This is how I do it. electradesigns 2006-03-26 10:22 pm UTC (link)
	you're welcome. :) (Reply to this)(Parent)

	Re: This is how I do it. vesperi 2006-03-27 03:04 am UTC (link)
	why do you flip the bust pieces? i understand the measurement is the same, but the outside curve?? (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: This is how I do it. electradesigns 2006-03-27 03:20 am UTC (link)
	because if you don't the pieces are too rounded, and the line you draw to connect them till be too long, which means you will probably have a gusset that turns out too big. Unless your draft the bust small to begin with, in which case, you may need the extra room. (Reply to this)(Parent)

	Re: This is how I do it. justtobeme2 2006-03-27 05:29 pm UTC (link)
	That is an awesome description. Thanks! Can you tell me what program you use to draw those things? I want to do this spooler thing but I don't have an easy'ish program to do that. I was thinking of just taking pictures but I can't describe in pictures what I need to show because it's already made and I need to show step by step. (Reply to this)(Parent)(Thread)

	Re: This is how I do it. electradesigns 2006-03-28 01:06 am UTC (link)
	thanks . I use adobe illustrator (Reply to this)(Parent)

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