excessersatz ([info]excessersatz) wrote in [info]corsetmakers,
@ 2006-02-01 12:02:00
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Entry tags:materials, technique

A few questions....
For those of you who make your own patterns...
1) What do you use to draft your patterns on? Paper, tissue, faerie wings?
2) When you cut the pattern from the paper, do you cut along the stitching line, with no seam allowance, or add seam allowance in?
3) If you cut your patterns on the stitching line, what do you use to mark the lines on the fabric?
4) Seam allowance - How much? Is it different for the center front/center back?

What width twill tape do you use for the waist tape?

Also, I think it was here that I read about someone using cotton ripstop for the underlayer in their corsets. Is there an online supplier of cotton ripstop (not rayon, or poly, or the other stuff I keep finding)? Maybe even in black? (sorry if this is a bit off-topic, but I'm wanting some for a skirt, rather than a corset.)

:)


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[info]blackrayne
2006-02-01 07:17 pm UTC (link)
1 - White kraft paper.

2 - After drafting the pattern I trace a copy of the individual pieces, then add the seam allowance to the copy, then cut the pattern out.

3 - Not exactly what you asked, but I lay out all of my fabric layers in one stack, place the pattern piece on, lining up the grain/selvedges/etc., use pattern weights and trace the pattern piece with a fabric pencil. I then cut all layers at one time with a rotary cutter.

4 - 1/2" all around (only because it's quicker to add 1/2" for me).

Twill tape/waist tape... depends on the corset, but usually 5/8" to 3/4".

Last question, since I am the one who originally mentioned cotton ripstop... AHH.

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[info]excessersatz
2006-02-01 07:29 pm UTC (link)
There it is! Thank you so much! This skirt in my head will become a reality! Muahaha!

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[info]justtobeme2
2006-02-01 10:25 pm UTC (link)
That cotton ripstop sounds pretty cool..does it stretch at all? How thick is it?Would you consider it medium/heavy weight?

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[info]blackrayne
2006-02-01 10:32 pm UTC (link)
It's got very, very little stretch. I'd say it's about a medium weight. If you've ever seen military bdu's or other garments, most are made with the cotton ripstop.

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[info]justtobeme2
2006-02-01 10:44 pm UTC (link)
Ha funny that you mention that! My whole family is military..lol..I am with you I'd say that was medium weight..I didn't know they considered that ripstop...Hey you know I could probably just cut up some bdu's..of course cutting them off a handsome man wearing them would be even more fun..;)

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[info]venomiss
2006-02-01 07:18 pm UTC (link)
1) 1" marked grid paper, then I trace it onto tissue and add seam allowances.
2) Add it.
3) N/A, though I use tailor's chalk to mark notes/changes on the wrong side of the fabric.
4) 1/2" or 5/8" depending on the style of corset, and I grade or overlock the seams later if I need to remove bulk.
5) I use 3/4" or 1" twill tape.

No clue about the ripstop, but good luck! :)

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: )
[info]excessersatz
2006-02-01 07:33 pm UTC (link)
Thanks!
The elusive ripstop has been located, thanks to Ms. Blackrayne above.

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[info]tonithegreat
2006-02-01 07:23 pm UTC (link)
1) Leftover newsprint paper in a big tablet from an art class.
2) I add the seam allowances in.
3) NA, although I use a regular pencil to mark bone channels and other notes on the wrong side of black fabric.
4) Depends on the construction method, but I like to give myself a generous 3/4" or inch.

So far, I've used 1", but I think thinner could work nicely.

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[info]caliginous
2006-02-01 07:31 pm UTC (link)
1. whatever is handy. newsprint, butcher paper, newspaper (printed), waxed paper, tagboard for master slopers

2. I cut on the stitching line unless there's a folded facing or something

3. I just trace the stitch lines to the fabric and freehand the SA

4. mockups get 1" SA all around (so there's plenty to make ajustments, bodice armscyes get 5/8" though so they're more comfortable), otherwise 5/8, I consider more to be facing (which translates to yes, more CF & CB)

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[info]caliginous
2006-02-01 07:32 pm UTC (link)
should add that seam finish will determine the s/a, if it's going to be flat felled or french and used for bone casing you'll have to go more, 5/8 is just my standard for all patterns.

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[info]wingedcorset
2006-02-01 07:31 pm UTC (link)
1) 1" grid paper, mostly.
2) Stitching line
3) I mark the lines to cut with chalk and a ruler. I do not mark the stitching lines on the fabric, I use standard seam allowances (mostly 1/2") and just know what they are.
4) For corsets, 1/2" on every seam. For regular garments, 1" on the side seams, 1/2" on everything else but the hem, which is 2".

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[info]laracorsets
2006-02-01 07:37 pm UTC (link)
1) I use pattern paper or oak-tag card stock

2) I cut patterns on the seam allowence line

4) 1/2" Seam allowance on seams, 1" on center front and back, 0" on top and bottom edges

5) 1" cotton twill tape

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[info]suzy_hendrix
2006-02-01 07:41 pm UTC (link)

1) If I'm feeling lazy, I'll use white craft paper from Michael's, if it's a pattern I plan on keeping/showing someone else, I use pattern paper with numbered grids
2) The seam allowance is included in my finished patterns.
4) Seam allowance - standard, 1/2". If I'm doing something with a facing (not a corset) I'll use something less, a hem on a skirt, usually more, a rolled hem, usually less.

1" twill tape. I use it for the waist tape and the bone casings.

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[info]roisnoir
2006-02-01 08:05 pm UTC (link)
1: I draft them on 1/4" graph paper, and then scale them up onto plastic tablecloth over a cutting board with a 1" grid.

2: I add the seam allowance when I draw the pattern out on the plastic.

4: I use .5" because it's easy for me to keep even. I don't need to measure it anymore.

The reel of twill tape that I have around is 1"

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[info]anidan
2006-02-01 09:17 pm UTC (link)
1) Initial scratchings are on big sheets of butchers paper, then I scan them into my computer to alter and add markings etc. I just print it out on normal office paper and tape bits together if I need to.

2) I include seam allowance on the pattern. I have a bad habit of forgetting to add it on the fabric otherwise.

3) Anything I need to mark on the fabric (definite bone placement or cutting lines for gores) are done with a tracing wheel and coloured 'carbon' paper. Burda makes the paper and it's usually yellow. Incidental markings (like name of the pattern piece) I use tailor's chalk.

4) I use a 1.5cm seam allowance. It makes perfect narrow flat felled seams and isn't too bulky for joining layers at centre front and centre back panels.

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[info]anidan
2006-02-01 09:18 pm UTC (link)
Ner, I forgot the twill tape. I use 1" because it's comfortable for the wearer.

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[info]dilemma_name
2006-02-01 09:19 pm UTC (link)
1) White butcher paper if I can get it. If not, I use the brown paper that is sold in office supply stores with the other mailing supplies.

2) It depends. If I am altering a commercial pattern, I add it in. If I am drafting my own, I leave it off. Either way, I leave myself a note so that I do not forget which one I did later.

3) Colored chalk. I have not had much luck using fabric pencils. I lay the pattern piece down on the fabric, trace around it, and then put the pattern piece away, especially if I am working with lightweight paper and want to use the pattern again. This way I do not punch holes in it or risk accidentally cutting the piece.

4) I use a 5/8 inch seam allowance. It is the standard on many commercial patterns and now I can eyeball it even when I am cutting. Half an inch would probably work just as well, but having the extra 1/8 inch extra makes doing some seam finishings easier for me.

Twill Tape: I have only made Tudor/Elizabethan corsets so far, so no waist tape.

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[info]doc__holliday
2006-02-01 09:33 pm UTC (link)
1. White 1" grid paper that I get from a teacher's supply store. If the client loves the pattern and chooses to order more in the exact same style (something I've encountered), I usually re-cut it onto a harder card-stock, and put the client's name, the waist size, and the style on each individual piece.
Although I've been really busy and unable to get to the supply store, so the last little while, it's been whatever I can get my hands on that's big enough (over the holidays, I ended up using the white side of wrapping paper..*hides head in shame*
:p)

2. I cut leaving no seam allowance, and then add the seam allowance on the fabric (tedious work, yes, but I follow the 'Measure Once Cut Twice' school of thought). Usually my seam allowances are 1/2" for side seams, 1" for centre front (if there's a busk involved, otherwise, it's 1/2") and .25" for the top and bottom.

3. chalk pencils

4. 1" twill tape.

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[info]no_baka
2006-02-01 10:28 pm UTC (link)
1. Anything from newsprint to computer paper taped together to large sheets of cardboard. It all depends on what I have around.

2. I add a seam allowance.

3. N/A, but I will use crayons to mark on dark fabric and felt-tip markers for light. Any markings are done where they will not show in a finished garment.

4. 1/2 inch all around.

5. Generally 1/2 inch.

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[info]justtobeme2
2006-02-01 10:30 pm UTC (link)
I use grided paper 4/4 and I find real tracing paper that comes in a roll from art store is the bomb! It doesn't tear and I can tape pattern pieces that I need to alter to the counter and put the tracing paper over them and measure and work my new pattern right on top without allthose lines and redrawing.

I use twill tape for waist tape.

I use 5.8 allowances because I feel that if something happens I have a bit to play with and I can always trim it off. Better to have a bit more than less. Also sometimes I place a bone in the seam allowance and I need enough to do that.

Another good thing I use for a final pattern is plastic table cover, the clear thickest they sell. I get it for half price. It stores well and you can trace right around it.

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[info]mewgoesthecat
2006-02-01 11:01 pm UTC (link)
i drape my patterns on a dress form, the seam allowance i like to add on the fabric and add 3/4 inch on sides, 1/2 inch on top and bottom and center front and center back
1 inch twill

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[info]mewgoesthecat
2006-02-01 11:03 pm UTC (link)
that big brown craft paper that comes ont he rollw orks nice

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[info]volscian
2006-02-02 12:01 am UTC (link)
1) Newspaper, I can get it for free on campus
2) Add the seam allowance to the pattern
4) .5 inch, it's easier math
5) 1" twill tape

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[info]corsetra
2006-02-02 12:11 am UTC (link)
1) Left over plotter paper. (on a side not I am getting a plotter of my own today!) basicly a big roll of 36" wide paper, what we used in pattern making class. it has no grid.

2) Always add seam allowance. normally about 1/2" the only time I don't is for my dolls, but they are very small, and then I use frezer paper and iron the freezer paper and sew around it. (freezer paper when ironed lightly will stick to the cotton fabric, and you have a nice template.)
3) not quite sure what you mean by this question, but I always mark the grain on each pattern piece, as well as what piece it is and which side is top, otherwise you are just asking for confusion. (strongest grain goes around the body at the waist, by the way.)
4) I sometimes have differing amounts of seam allowance for the front or the back, don't want the seam allowance to end right in the middle of where I need a gromet or the bones. but I also trim my SA anyways.

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[info]sitpadeshu
2006-02-02 01:20 am UTC (link)
I think it depends of the school of thought you learned from but here is my list. :)

1) White butcher paper
2) If I have to do several mock-up fittings I don't include the seam allowances. After the fittings are finished I will make a complete pattern including the seam allowances.
3) I use a pencil while I'm working with my mock-ups. I use a watercolor pencil to mark on fashion fabric. This will wash out of most fabrics you use and shows up really nicely.
4) I use 1/2 seam allowances, but if I'm not quite certain of the fit or want to fell the seams then I will make it 5/8 or larger.
5) I use 3/4 twill for 1/2 boning.

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[info]xeger
2006-02-02 04:18 pm UTC (link)
1) What do you use to draft your patterns on? Paper, tissue, faerie wings?

I usually use newsprint when I'm doing my initial drafts - it's cheap and easy to deal with, and I can get it in every size from small pads for kids up to the large rolls they print newspapers on. For permanant copies, I'll either use a roll of 'pattern' paper (it's hard to describe, but it's about twice to three times as thick as newsprint, and takes markings beautifully), brown paper bags (the garden waste ones are a great size!), or card stock. I've been considering using perspex for some of my basic shapes, since that'll give me a nice surface to run a rotary cutter along.

2) When you cut the pattern from the paper, do you cut along the stitching line, with no seam allowance, or add seam allowance in?

It really depends on the pattern. For the corset pattern that I'm currently working on, I've included the seam allowance, so that it's identical on all pieces - but it's just as common for me to not include seam allowance. I -always- mark whether seam allowance is included on the pattern piece, and how much should be included if it's non-standard, and not included.

3) If you cut your patterns on the stitching line, what do you use to mark the lines on the fabric?

Usually pen of some sort - sometimes ballpoint, sometimes ink. I've found that the silver/gold pens work very well for marking on dark cloth. I don't often use chalk, because it tends to wear off long before I'm done needing to see the marks.

4) Seam allowance - How much? Is it different for the center front/center back?

Again, it depends on what I'm making. For general garment sewing (no fancy seam types), I'll usually use 1cm-or-so. For corsetry? I'm currently using 1" for the majority of the seams, and 2"-or-so at the front and back.

What width twill tape do you use for the waist tape?

I should really do that for this one. I expect it'll end up being 1" tape.

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[info]electradesigns
2006-02-02 09:25 pm UTC (link)
I use white butcher paper, which I buy in huge rolls at Costco for cheap. I draft without seam allowances, then add them on before cutting out the fabric. I use 1/2" seam allowances on all seams.

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[info]britgeekgrrl
2006-02-04 05:30 pm UTC (link)
Because of all the useful and varied answers, I think this entry qualifies as a memory. Thanks!

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