Josi (O-Josi-O) ([info]eris_devotee) wrote in [info]art_of_crochet,
@ 2007-02-28 17:49:00
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Gauge, Drape & Substitution: Week One
Hello all and thank you for attending. The question-and-answer portion of this class will run from 7:30pm to 9:00pm central standard time.

Although you do not need an account with LiveJournal to participate in this discussion, if you do not I ask that you sign your comments with your first name and last initial. Comments without this will be deleted.

I had a bit of technical difficulty this week, and the computer I normally use to create PDFs and render video is in repair. As a result, the video is, maybe, a touch less fabulous (well, a lot less fabulous if one is being honest) than I'd like. However, this gives me goals, and each week it'll get a little spiffier and a lot more fun.

For today, it's all a bit dry, but I have a lot of info for you, and a smidge of visual aids.

First, please view the video at the following link:

Episode One

Then, please download and read the following -- the following document is really the "meat" of tonight's class, and also contains your assignment for next week:

Basics of Gauge

The next 2 items are mentioned in the video, and it is up to you whether or not you would like to download/use them or not:

Gauge Tool

Swatchbook Template

I'll be back at 7:30pm to answer your questions. Thank you for attending.

--Josi

P.S. If you love what we're doing, and would like to support our efforts (and help me purchase a decent microphone, among other things), please consider donating to Art of Crochet:

















P.P.S. I wasn't able to create a PDF today, so if the file format of the Word Docs are not opening for you, please comment and I will try to upload an alternate version for you.

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Awesome seminar!
[info]crochetcrablady
2007-03-01 01:28 am UTC (link)
This is an awesome seminar!! Great Job! It is taking my (almost)51 year old brain a while to digest it all, but I'm loving it!
Thank you soooo much for all your hard work!
Karen O'G

(Reply to this) (Thread)
Re: Awesome seminar!
[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 02:21 am UTC (link)
Thank you, too. I hope to get a little better at the video presentations. Once I have someone else to operate the camera, I think I will be able to make them more fun.

(Reply to this) (Parent)

[info]itshardtosay
2007-03-01 01:33 am UTC (link)
The donation link adds a shipping fee, just fyi. I went ahead and made my donation plus $0.05 for an even amount. Also, it links back to AoC's "thanks...and you'll be receiving an e-mail regarding your pattern..."

As for gauge: all of my yarn is in storage, so I went and bought Bernat's Softee Baby, which was the only (Sport) DK weight yarn I could find at my local Michael's. It has a label guage of 22sts x 30rows in a 4"x4" square. Recommended hook is a size G, but the gauge is for knitted.

My H hook swatch, however, matches your gauge for Knit Picks Crayon. 16 sts x 19 rows in a 4"x4" square.

(Reply to this) (Thread)

[info]itshardtosay
2007-03-01 01:37 am UTC (link)
Damn, I wish there was an edit comment feature on livejournal. Okay, I'm an idiot. The gauge I gave you was for my G hook swatch. I think my brain is full of saw dust from spending the last hour sanding a hook.

(Reply to this) (Parent)

[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 01:38 am UTC (link)
I just fixed that shipping fee problem -- I thought I had it on override, but somehow I missed something the first time around. I refunded someone else -- but thank you for figuring it out to the amount you wanted.

Also -- thank you for donating.

The Knit Picks Crayon probably worked up with the tallest rows, but an average width. That's normal for a bouclé yarn. Acrylic yarn will often behave a lot like cotton -- it's a touch stiff and it works up more thickly than plied wool or alpaca.

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)
(no subject) - [info]itshardtosay, 2007-03-01 01:55 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:02 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]itshardtosay, 2007-03-01 02:11 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:14 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]itshardtosay, 2007-03-01 03:08 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 03:13 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]itshardtosay, 2007-03-01 03:15 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]twoarchys, 2007-03-01 02:13 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:15 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]twoarchys, 2007-03-01 02:26 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]skamamawa, 2007-03-01 02:21 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]twoarchys, 2007-03-01 02:30 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]flyinghooks, 2007-03-01 02:36 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]itshardtosay, 2007-03-01 03:26 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]croaganey, 2007-03-01 02:10 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:12 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]twoarchys, 2007-03-01 02:32 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]twoarchys, 2007-03-01 02:33 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:36 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]croaganey, 2007-03-01 02:46 am UTC
(no subject) - [info]croaganey, 2007-03-01 02:40 am UTC
Meeting Guage
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 01:35 am UTC (link)
When trying to match the guage for a specific pattern, what do you do if you can match the stitches per inch but not the rows per inch?

Jenny B

(Reply to this) (Thread)
Re: Meeting Guage
[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 01:41 am UTC (link)
If you aren't meeting rows/inch, you can adjust your tension a little, or adjust the pattern (adjusting for length is a lot easier than adjusting for width).

If your tension is too loose to meet gauge (meaning you have fewer rows than called for in the gauge swatch), it's not so difficult to train yourself to stitch a little bit more firmly.

If your tension is tighter, you could either try using a different yarn, or adjust the pattern by adding a few rows here or there.

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)
Re: Meeting Guage - [info]sandy1023, 2007-03-01 02:10 am UTC
Re: Meeting Guage - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:11 am UTC
Re: Meeting Guage - [info]sandy1023, 2007-03-01 02:22 am UTC
Re: Meeting Guage - [info]dainty_kate, 2007-03-01 02:41 am UTC
Re: Meeting Guage - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:48 am UTC
Crocheting Large/Heavy Garments
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 01:43 am UTC (link)
When crocheting a larger garment that hangs (dress, pants, etc.) should you take the weight of the finished garment into consideration? For instance, if making a long skirt in cotton, it will stretch over time. When planning the skirt should you plan for that "stretch" ahead of time?

(Reply to this) (Thread)
Re: Crocheting Large/Heavy Garments
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 01:44 am UTC (link)
Oops! Forgot my signature line.

Jenny B.

(Reply to this) (Parent)
Re: Crocheting Large/Heavy Garments
[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 01:46 am UTC (link)
Absolutely -- that's a topic that we'll cover next week in drape. Both the heaviness, and the stretchiness, of a fabric needs to be considered.

As well, so does the it's tendancy to felt. (Fitted skirts really shouldn't be crocheted from fibers that felt, else you'll end up with uneven wear and little hot pads for your buns.)

(Reply to this) (Parent)

[info]skamamawa
2007-03-01 01:46 am UTC (link)
Nice work on the first class. I want to see more Josi dances, though.

My tension is a moody little beast. When I make a fitted garment, I need to check my gauge periodically throughout the pattern as my tension can become too tight when stressed and loosen up when I relax. If I find that my gauge has changed, I will rip it back and try to adjust it with the same hook. If that doesn't work, I'll change hooks.

(Reply to this) (Thread)

[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 01:50 am UTC (link)
More Josi dances are sure to follow. I need to get permission for some music (I was hoping Chloe, among others, would be willing to let me use a tune. Plus my cousin, and a few other friends, too.)

The thicker thread work I've done (raw silk with a B or C hook) really helped me even up my tension. No stretch yarn is completely unforgiving.

My gauge will tighten if I try to rush myself, but I notice on the next row because then the stitches are tighter to push the hook into (awkward sentence, but I'm hoping you know what I mean.)

(Reply to this) (Parent)
Josi's dances
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 01:56 am UTC (link)
Where did you go to see Josi's dances? Would love to see that? Do wwe need to tell you the gauges we ended up with?

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)
Re: Josi's dances - [info]eris_devotee, 2007-03-01 02:00 am UTC
Designing and Guage
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 01:52 am UTC (link)
This is more a problem with my knitting than with my crocheting, but how do you deal with having a personal "tension" that is not average. I can usually meet crochet guage with no problem, but I am a loose knitter, and I have to drop one, two, or more needle sizes to meet guage. But this can be a tricky issue when designing. When working up a pattern design should I list the guage I got on my project? Are people going to complain because they can't get my guage? Should I let my test knitters or crocheters give me their opinions of the guage before publishing?

Jenny B.

(Reply to this) (Thread)
Re: Designing and Guage
[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 01:58 am UTC (link)
If you know your gauge is that non-standard, I would definitely recommend going to your testers for input when pattern writing.

Because yes -- people will complain. Now, that doesn't have to drive your decision, because you can just state up front that one should knit more loosely than accustomed, because that relates to the drape you are trying to achieve.

(Reply to this) (Parent)

[info]just_a_peek
2007-03-01 01:56 am UTC (link)
Thanks for the seminar-I already love it. The gauge tool is one of those forehead-smack ideas (why didn't I think of that?)

I'm glad you said that about felting, I would never have thought of that, but it makes sense.

I made a donation and it still adds for shipping and handling. You don't have to refund me (my initials are RB) but just thought I would let you know that it was still doing that.

(Reply to this) (Thread)

[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 02:25 am UTC (link)
Thank you very much!

The gauge tool is something I made for myself when I started writing patterns, because I wanted something standard.

I learned about felting the hard way. I crocheted a skirt I just loved to pieces, 100% wool and front-post stitches. After I wore it to work a few times, I noticed that the design was getting blurred in spots. And then it dawned on me. So yeah... nothing that felts for where one sits. And fitted underarms are at risk, too.

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)
(no subject) - [info]dainty_kate, 2007-03-01 02:32 am UTC

[info]robin4rugs
2007-03-01 02:30 am UTC (link)
hi,

i just made a donation and it is still adding shipping. i'm so glad you asked us to help with this great project.

i just finished my swatches and printing everything, i feel like i'm behind!

(Reply to this) (Thread)

[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 02:32 am UTC (link)
I'm so sorry about the shipping. I can't seem to figure out what is wrong. The overrides are all in place, but Paypal keeps adding shipping anyway.

Thank you so much, btw.

Oh -- and we'll be getting together next week, too. There's no need to rush as all of the material will be available, and I'll be able to answer any questions about any of the materials.

(Reply to this) (Parent)
Thank you, Josi
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 02:35 am UTC (link)
You did a great job presenting, and the course content is very useful, thank you. I look forward to next week.

Su R (AKA Pink)

(Reply to this)


(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 02:36 am UTC (link)
So much great infromation, Love the gauge tool idea thats great. I am trying my hands at designing and I think your class will help. I can't wait for the drap class. I also can't wait to try all the tips for the swatches for next class. way to go. GF

(Reply to this)


[info]twoarchys
2007-03-01 02:37 am UTC (link)
As a pokey dial-up user, I'm STILL downloading the video nearly 45 minutes later. Is there a way to save the video locally so that I can view it at leisure rather than waiting 45+ minutes any time I want to refer back to it?

~Becky G.~

P.S. I am absolutely LOVING this!

(Reply to this) (Thread)

[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 02:43 am UTC (link)
I need to upload it somewhere else, and then I'll link you to it. I can also create a somewhat smaller version, too.

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)
(no subject) - [info]twoarchys, 2007-03-01 02:59 am UTC
furture seminars
(Anonymous)
2007-03-01 02:40 am UTC (link)
Are planning on doing more seminars, I hope so I would love to learn some more on designing a garment, as well as writing out a pattern. your doing a great job. thanks again

(Reply to this) (Thread)
Re: furture seminars
[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 02:46 am UTC (link)
This is the first week of this seminar, with 2 more classes the next 2 Wednesdays (next week is Drape, and then after that is Substitution).

In the spring, I'll hold another seminar on basic shaping techniques. Then, in the summer, it will be a seminar that ties into a build-your-own sweater pattern I've created.

Hopefully, too, I will be able to wrangle a few of my friends (ahem, [info]skamamawa, ahem) to also offer online classes.

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)
Re: furture seminars - (Anonymous), 2007-03-01 02:49 am UTC
homework
[info]sandy1023
2007-03-01 02:46 am UTC (link)
Besides the info we have now, the swatches we did, the video, etc., is there something we need to do this week to get ready for next week's session?

(Reply to this) (Thread)
Re: homework
[info]eris_devotee
2007-03-01 02:50 am UTC (link)
Yes -- the document titled Gauge-1.doc has a few exercises at the end of it. You can use the swatchbook template to take your notes.

Basically, I want you to make a few more swatches, this time in different yarns, and then I want you to compare qualities about their drape, weight, stretch, etc.

Next week, I'm going to get into how different fibers behave differently (some are stiffer, some are squishy, some are heavy, etc), and how that affects a completed piece.

(Reply to this) (Parent)
This is great!
[info]alienbea
2007-03-01 02:48 am UTC (link)
I just wanted to add my thanks to the chorus already started and to say that this is just what I needed. :) I just started crocheting last November and am still at the very earliest stages of learning -- so your seminars are coming at just the right time for me! I have already learned so much that I really didn't know.

(Reply to this)

Thank you
[info]flyinghooks
2007-03-01 03:18 am UTC (link)
I too want to add my thanks for your hard work. Tonight was reaffirming for me. I personally love the math of crochet. I make mostly garments for me & my kids (ok dh gets a few) and I ALWAYS swatch, measure and swatch again with mulitiple hooks and multiple yarns. I'm looking forward to the the next two weeks to learn more about drape.

(Reply to this)


[info]madresal
2007-03-01 03:19 pm UTC (link)
Would you be open to teaching a crochet class to people in my singles club (HighLife Adventures)? I'm not sure how much they pay but I think you would get a lot of interest.

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